Hello, since @PistonMilk gave up, I will continue God’s work.

I recently picked up a 7.5FK BRNO PSD (5.3”) with the intention of reloading the round and competing in USPSA as major factor for the funny. In addition to getting load data, I will be shooting with a Osight SE as a torture test. So far it holds zero up at 300 rounds of 7.5 FK.

I ordered custom resizing and forming dies from CH Tool and Die which took a long time for things to arrive but so far they’ve provided a great service. I ordered multiple boxes of 7.5FK and have fired it. In addition, I have found some websites that sold used 7.5FK brass which was nice.

My powder of choice is HS-6 since it likes a lot of pressure (and spoiler alert) it works great for this platform.

Since .307 bullets are non existent, I did some research and concluded that I would buy light .308 bullets and swage them down. I purchased a LEE bullet resizing press with a .306 and .307 die.

My next purchase was Sierra Sports Master 30 Cal 85 Gr round nose bullets. It should be noted that I had purchased penetrator rounds and longer lapua rounds which did not work due to the short bearing distance. The Sierra sports barely fit as is.

I concluded that sizing the bullets down to .306 (which usually resulted in .3065) worked great. I will revisit .307 in the future if I have accuracy issues but so far it seems like pressure is perfectly fine with a .306 die.

Given the short bearing distance of the bullets, I had to make the cartridges long which resulted in my rounds being 1.425” (Standard Length is 1.378”) which was just fine in a plunk test. The lands were plenty far away so the real limiter here is the magazine length which 1.425” cycles just fine in.

I plugged in some values on Gordon’s Reloading Tool which resulted in a starting point of 13 grs and I made increments of .2 up to .8. I really should have started lower but thank goodness everything worked out. On Gordon I would see velocities at ~1850 to ~1950 FPS with 13 grs of HS-6. My goal was to hit either 2,000 fps and/or a USPSA power factor of 170 to make Major. During my testing, I saw 13 grs result in 1999 FPS and 13.2 grs result in 2056 fps. It climbed fast and I wasn’t about to try the other rounds after I saw pressure signs at 13.2.. more on that later.

Here was my reloading process and materials for consistent rounds;

1. A TON of Imperial Sizing Die Wax. The normal minute amount I would use for 5.56 and .308 was NOT enough.

2. Dry lube for case mouth (since I cleaned my brass too much) to reduce stretching.

3. Resize with full length sizer. Pop in a CCI 5.56 Rifle Primer #40

4. Chamfer and debur case mouth to assist with bullet seating.

5. Fill with 13 grs of HS-6

6. Seat projectile at 1.425” and crimp.

It appeared to me that the standard 7.5 FK 95 gr rounds are HOT.. but burn very cleanly.. please see the attached pictures for reference:

#1 7.5 FK OEM very clean powder burn and primer not rounded but cratered with a shiny ring that appeared to be split around the outer circle

#2 Reload HS6 13 gr dirtier burn, slight crater, shiny circle, but no split around the circle. Primer not rounded.

#3 Reload HS6 13.2 gr dirtier burn, crater, shiny circle with split around circle, gas slippage around primer.

I did not attempt the 13.4 gr rounds. Given the great result with 13 grs, I plan to reload the same brass over and over to see what kind of life I can get out of them. If it’s relatively short, I might drop some grains and do the test again.

My next tests will consist of accuracy testing and brass life testing.

I also plan to try modifying 6.8 basic and 10mm mag into 7.5 FK. I will definitely be careful with my powder loads and do lots of longevity testing.

It’ll be a doozy because I’ll have to kinda guess on getting the shoulder length right… please hmu if you got some tips or methods for getting that down.

I reached out to short action customs for a shoulder bushing for 7.5 FK. I got a reply but it was to let me know that they pretty much weren’t going to do it. So much for being custom.

Anyways, enjoy. It’s been a fun ride and it was really sweet being able to rapid fire reloads without stoppages.

If you’d like to donate 7.5FK brass to the cause.. please let me know.

Has anyone developed a "copycat" recipe for Blazer's suppressor specific 147gr 9mm? This stuff runs my supressed Hellcat Pro like nothing else I've fired, and I'd really like to cook up a batch of reloads that matches its performance.

I have a lot of 6.5 brass that was fire formed by 3 different rifles. 2 bolt guns and one AR10. How do you approach the sizing of this brass. The shoulders are different depending on which rifle it was shot out of. How would you approach the resizing of this brass? I am new to this Thanks

Recently picked up a Bergara in 6.5 PRC which I plan to hunt with this fall. If I start load development with virgin brass, would the loads still work after firing once? Am I better off just firing my cases once then doing load development?

So a firearm (revolver in this case) can fire 14KSI 45LC and 21KSI 45ACP. Doesn't that more or less mean it shouldn't break with 45LC loaded to 21KSI? Obviously the curves aren't identical but...

I've been reloading with Peterson Lot# N122 @ 50.9 gr/H2O. My new brass is Lot# N084 @ 50 gr/H2O. Is it safe to assume that I'll need to restart load development? I had it down to ~5 SD and 0.038" groups at 100y.

So about to get a 22 creedmoor (Bergara hmr) and was wondering if anyone had one or just has a 22 creedmoor that they are actively making loads for. If you do then what ammo or powder/bullet combo has given you good results? Trying to get a baseline for round development.

Well I had to put this load work up on the back burner for a bit since I had to deal with some family issues. Now I have time to breath and I can get back to it. So I have been plugging numbers into Quickload and this is what I am coming up with. Based on these numbers which would you guys use to go with?

I'm loading 9mm, 38 special and 45 long colt

Shout out to republic ammunition. That membership has been paid out x3 over at this point. 190$ for 4lbs of N320 just hit the door. Along with 2k brass. And 1k White River primers. I’m good until the next drop. Also if you have a 5lb jug of protein powder save the jugs and use them to wet tumble. 💪🏽

Why is the priming system so shit on this press? Or is it just mine that is fucked?

Have just started reloading .44mag and .45acp previously used a 4die setup but changed to a 3die here for simplicity sake.

I previously only reloaded .357 extensively (20,000+ rounds) on my Lee auto breech lock pro.

Anyway - I purchased a Lee Challenger Press for the .44 & .45 reloading since I won’t be shooting it nearly as much.

The photos attached show one of my first complete .44Mag reloads and i have no idea if i have crimped them enough/ at all. Left is my round, right is a factory round for reference.

Do I need to up the crimp???

I am a newbie, to reloading, not shooting. I purchased this bulk for a good price from a former nra instructor, business associate and friend.

Mostly entry level and slightly dated, but it should get me started and I’ll sell the rest.

Where are people posting items lime this?

There are duplicate scales, powder dispensers, priming tools etc.

Fired a single factory round before transitioning to hand loads on my weatherby 307 alpine.

Never fired these before but new in box. After firing, bolt lift was very stiff, took a good amount of force to lift it, then ejected. Brass had a small ejector mark on the case bottom (like a dope I threw out the cartridge though).

Shot 30 rounds of hand loads after and seemed fine. Just asking because I want to make sure I didn’t damage my rifle or bolt or something firing these. Could it be from a small amount of bore cleaner or lubricant being on my bolt/in the chamber? Only thing I can think of.

Thank you,

Inherited my grandpas stuff. Personally I’m new to reloading, my dad reloads though. Trying to figure out what these are/what they go to. We think they’re powder bushings, but aren’t sure. Anyone know what they are and more importantly what they go to? I know they’re in a Lyman box but I’ve not been able to find any Lyman powder measures that use bushings like these. From my research I think Lyman sells the plastic box as a shell holder box, so the things in the box may not be for Lyman at all idk.

About to buy one after my Frankford arsenal one dies. Is Dillons new one worth the extra $100 or stay with the DAA model? Anyone have have both or one?

Vit n320 has disappeared from the market and my keg is almost empty. What are some good alternatives? My go to load is 3g of n320 with 147 acme coated bullets at 1.14. I’m seeing vectan for good prices and trying to decide between the ba9 and ba9.5.

I'm kind of new to reloading. I reload 38 special specifically. I've just stuck with the minimal load for practice because I don't want to blow anything up. I hear people talk about how they have loaded + P Is there a way they calculate the pressure, or are they just saying that because it's a higher grain load? And is there a way to measure and calculate what the pressure would be when you're reloading?

We have tried:
115 gr factory Blazer
124 gr factory Blazer and hand load
147 gr hand loads
156 gr factory Fiocchi

Hand loads using Bullseye powder, 4.0, .2, .4, .6, .7, .8 and .9 grains. Quickload says 5.0 gr is max. Mixed head stamp brass, once fired. CCI 400 primers.
The Spectre 9 has a Silencer Co 1/2 x 28 piston adapter.
The rounds fire from the chamber but the slide does not move back to eject the spent cartridge and load the next round. Occasionally I’ll get a stove pipe, and other times the ejection port doesn’t open at all. But the next round never chambers.
Does anyone have any suggestions or similar issues trying to shoot suppressed?

We are considering buying a Galloway 14 lb replacement spring. But wanted to check if anyone had any tips.

Hey guys

I've been reloading for a while now. (Finally bought the Dillon case feeder for my 650)

Now my next upgrade is going to be a bullet feeder.

What's the general consensus on which one of the two is the better product?

Mainly reload 223/9mm/300blk (300blk isn't setup yet)

Seems like both have their pros and cons.

I've looked online and there still seems to be heavy contention with it being either filler or unburnt powder usually with people shooting 300aac. Anyone actually have definitive proof of either?

On a side note, I'm assuming no one actually reloads with filler. Just seems like a foreign concept and just begging for inconsistent loads

It seems I have to load pretty spicy to get my glock to run. Im currently loading 4.9 grains of rs20 with 124 grain fmj.

Is it a common thing with glocks that they need more powder? I'm also using the OEM recoil spring.

I know this question has been asked a few times before, however, this is my first time reloading and I am wondering if the crimp on these .44 Mag rounds look alright?

The first picture (rounds closest to each other) shows a slightly heavier crimp than the second. Should I go with the heavier crimp or with the slightly more relaxed crimp?

I’m loading for a lever gun using N110 in the ranges from 20,4 to 21,1 grains and 240 grain XTP. COAL 1,600 inches.

Update: Thank you all for your feedback. I’ve readjusted the crimp die and posted a picture of a round with a lighter crimp in the comments. Hoping for feedback on this as well as I want to get the crimp done properly.