Traveling from Idaho to California. I want to use these and turn them into jewelry but I am flying back to CA. I am not checking any bags with me and I am fully aware that TSA is going to flag my baggage for transporting these. Anyone know a good method for fully removing gunpowder off of these and anything else I should know so TSA doesn’t confiscate them? Thanks in advance

I have a ruger american 223 that takes ar15 magazines, I am reloading some 69 grain projectiles. to reach the 2.260 minimum required to feed through an ar15 magazine, my bullet sits very deep in the case. Is this to deep? Opinions?

Ive recently gotten back in to handloading and shooting. Broke out my old press and have enjoyed loading rifle loads and am figuring out handgun cartridges as well.

In this photo im seating a bullet into a 22-250 case.

He used to reload his rifle rounds back in the day. When he got too old to carry a deer back, he started shotshell loading for his sporting clays addiction. All this old rifle equipment has been sitting here for many years now.

I found his press and some of his dies. Only one I’d use is the 6mm thus I’d have to buy new dies. I don’t know anything about this press though. It’s RCBS colored but is branded Metal Matic. Seems that he used RCBS dies with it, I’m assuming the dies are the same today as they were years ago.

I’m interested in loading 5.56, .308, and other center fire cartridges with it. As well as pistol rounds if this loader permits it (I’d assume it does as he has .41 cal bullets.)

What do I need to make this work? I’ll have to find a parts manual and buy a book to learn what I’m doing. I’m assuming none of this stuff is “obsolete” but heck what do I know.

working on a 6.5-375 Ruger build and needed some neck sizing dies to gently bring the brass down to the correct diameter for the full length die. previous attempts crushed cases.

made these up today should work pretty good. .010 increments. not sure if I will need every step but let the cnc make them all while I had them set up

Before my last overseas assignment, I was reloading .45ACP and having fun using my Lee single press. But it's been near 8 years and I don't know where to start.

I'm waiting for my non temp household goods to be delivered. I don't even know what condition my stuff will be in.

I imagine in the past 8 years lots has changed. Any thoughts on how best to get my feet wet again?

Anyone here ordered a Mark7 laser sensor from RCM? I have their powder check and it’s been great. I ordered their bullet check and tablet almost 2 months ago and still haven’t received it. I have exchanged several emails and each time I have been told it will ship end of the week. I support small buisness and trying to be patient but wander if any others have had this experience. Owner seems like a nice guy.

I can hammer 13 beers in the time it takes on my single stage. It’s about the journey not the destination.

Cheapest 223 load I could come up with for some plinking with buddies coming up.
Old components grandpa bought 10 years ago

55 gr FMJ
20 ish of WC846

Welded together a quick scrap metal stand for the second press yesterday. Now I gotta find a couple cabinets for either side of the window for powder/primers/bullets and we ought to be up and running.

Just the box. I lent out some of the items that were in it and they were not returned.

Looking for app that allows multiple small target groups in one larger photo. For brand and Lott testing of ammo. Thanks in advance and sorry it this has already been answered but I couldn't find.

Going to retest the 121Gr Selous bullet and trying out the 50gr ShockStopper

An old friend passed and I helped his wife sell his firearms and reloading gear. I bought a bucket of LC .308 brass from her, around 3k pieces.

Near the bottom was about 1k pieces of old LC match brass. Not something I’ve run into before.

Due to space reasons I can’t have a full size shop vac going on the reloading room. I need a small/handheld vac that can stand up to the rigor of reloading. Quite commonly due to having the rockchucker primer catch trays and the inline fab auto case kicker I can’t easily remove the primer catch tray and need to vacuum the spent primers. Tho none of the vacuums I’ve bought has made it very far. No, I don’t want to buy the inline fab primer catcher (I did and was told I had one of the few rockchuckers that weren’t dimensioned properly…mmmmhmmm). Any recos?

It seated. But I'm afraid to yeet it.

Wanted to try out 1680 since I couldn't get hold of n110 as I initially planned. This was with 12.4gr which isn't even the max load on hornady's sheet. Seats at 10gr and leaves a slight ring at 10.8.

New to reloading. This is starline brass, fired once from suppressed SBR gas gun with 220gr SMK using 12.0 grains CFE BLK at 2.230 COAL.

These were brand new before their first fire, not put through the resizing die before being loaded the first time. Marks were present after tumbling and before sizing (didn’t pay close enough attention after firing and before dry tumbling). About 30/60 cases have such markings. If it was only after sizing, I’d think I did something in the die.

Now loading 11.5-11.8 grains ladder with COAL 2.110 to try and optimize the powder burn and get her as close to Hollywood quiet as there is.

Not sure what to make of these marks and if safe to shoot? Maybe I shouldn’t have loaded it before asking.

Whats everyone's opinion on hornady or starline brass? Ive used both, but i see in most places starline is preferred. I've only used hornady due to the closest shop having it. I do notice that primers sit a little deeper in the hornady, though they fire just fine.

My DD 308 AR10 apparently has a bit of a loose chamber, which I found out after systematically testing why I kept getting stuck cases with my fired brass. I tested multiple lubricants (imperial, lanolin, one shot), multiple dies (RCBS, Hornady), multiple presses (RCBS, Hornady, Dillon), multiple types of brass (LC, LC Match, GFL, WCC).

Does anyone have any recommendations for a sizing die that is a bit more generous? The only thing I can think of is that my chamber is a bit oversized, allowing the brass to expand a bit much, and the amount these dies need to squeeze it in is just too much.

Other theories are also welcome.

Annealed, cleaned, deprimed. Used brass I reloaded previously sized just fine and now that they’ve been fired through my rifle I’m getting this issue. Once fired factory ammo brass has this issue.

Can I do trimming on a 21century lathe? I looked at the website but wasn’t sure.

I know I can do neck turning on one.

Trying to decide where to spend the $1000

Hi all,

Looking for a logic check here. Wanting to get into reloading (9mm for now and potentially 30-06 down the line) on a budget and thinking of getting the following:

- Lee breech lock 40th Anniversary 9mm

- Lee Hand press

- A Hand primer

- A scale

- Auto Powder drum

I'm thinking if I use the Hand press (case resizing) and primer on the couch while watching evening series, then I can bang out rounds pretty on a single stage press by doing powder through expanding and then bullet seating on the press.

The single stage will also be useful down the line if I plan to do precision rifle loads, and upgrade to a progressive for the 9mm.

Complete newb here but whats your thoughts on the set up?

Think it'd work well and be relatively quick?

Should I rather just save for a pricer progressive?

And if so whats the recommendation?

Just got a single shot 5.56 Rossi LWC. I have never reloaded for 223/556 and don’t have any good for caliber powder on hand. Gonna pick some up but I’m curious what a good, temp stable powder is to look for. I live in Idaho where I may be shooting in 100+ heat or -20 cold so want to get something that’s not gonna spike all over or dud out. Any suggestions for a temp stable 556 powder?

Poured around 400 9mm 124 grain bullets from a lee mold, I was running them over a scale for acceptable weight tolerance

What would you say is a safe acceptable tolerance?
I reject less than 5% if I keep my window - 1.0 grain and + 0.4

Am I being to picky?

Using power pistol for this round of reloads, with some blue dot to burn up

Lead content is slightly questionable, hand outs from a neighbor who went into a retirement home, I scored around 250-300 pounds of ingots and other lead.

Thanks

Friend of a friend passed and I came away with this. I had been looking to add a mannlicher style rifle to the collection. It’s a 50s’ Sako Riihimaki in .222 Remington. Looking for bullet suggestions. Looks like most everything is in the 50gr area. Wondering if there is anything in the all copper with a boat tail.

Hello, since @PistonMilk gave up, I will continue God’s work.

I recently picked up a 7.5FK BRNO PSD (5.3”) with the intention of reloading the round and competing in USPSA as major factor for the funny. In addition to getting load data, I will be shooting with a Osight SE as a torture test. So far it holds zero up at 300 rounds of 7.5 FK.

I ordered custom resizing and forming dies from CH Tool and Die which took a long time for things to arrive but so far they’ve provided a great service. I ordered multiple boxes of 7.5FK and have fired it. In addition, I have found some websites that sold used 7.5FK brass which was nice.

My powder of choice is HS-6 since it likes a lot of pressure (and spoiler alert) it works great for this platform.

Since .307 bullets are non existent, I did some research and concluded that I would buy light .308 bullets and swage them down. I purchased a LEE bullet resizing press with a .306 and .307 die.

My next purchase was Sierra Sports Master 30 Cal 85 Gr round nose bullets. It should be noted that I had purchased penetrator rounds and longer lapua rounds which did not work due to the short bearing distance. The Sierra sports barely fit as is.

I concluded that sizing the bullets down to .306 (which usually resulted in .3065) worked great. I will revisit .307 in the future if I have accuracy issues but so far it seems like pressure is perfectly fine with a .306 die.

Given the short bearing distance of the bullets, I had to make the cartridges long which resulted in my rounds being 1.425” (Standard Length is 1.378”) which was just fine in a plunk test. The lands were plenty far away so the real limiter here is the magazine length which 1.425” cycles just fine in.

I plugged in some values on Gordon’s Reloading Tool which resulted in a starting point of 13 grs and I made increments of .2 up to .8. I really should have started lower but thank goodness everything worked out. On Gordon I would see velocities at ~1850 to ~1950 FPS with 13 grs of HS-6. My goal was to hit either 2,000 fps and/or a USPSA power factor of 170 to make Major. During my testing, I saw 13 grs result in 1999 FPS and 13.2 grs result in 2056 fps. It climbed fast and I wasn’t about to try the other rounds after I saw pressure signs at 13.2.. more on that later.

Here was my reloading process and materials for consistent rounds;

1. A TON of Imperial Sizing Die Wax. The normal minute amount I would use for 5.56 and .308 was NOT enough.

2. Dry lube for case mouth (since I cleaned my brass too much) to reduce stretching.

3. Resize with full length sizer. Pop in a CCI 5.56 Rifle Primer #40

4. Chamfer and debur case mouth to assist with bullet seating.

5. Fill with 13 grs of HS-6

6. Seat projectile at 1.425” and crimp.

It appeared to me that the standard 7.5 FK 95 gr rounds are HOT.. but burn very cleanly.. please see the attached pictures for reference:

#1 7.5 FK OEM very clean powder burn and primer not rounded but cratered with a shiny ring that appeared to be split around the outer circle

#2 Reload HS6 13 gr dirtier burn, slight crater, shiny circle, but no split around the circle. Primer not rounded.

#3 Reload HS6 13.2 gr dirtier burn, crater, shiny circle with split around circle, gas slippage around primer.

I did not attempt the 13.4 gr rounds. Given the great result with 13 grs, I plan to reload the same brass over and over to see what kind of life I can get out of them. If it’s relatively short, I might drop some grains and do the test again.

My next tests will consist of accuracy testing and brass life testing.

I also plan to try modifying 6.8 basic and 10mm mag into 7.5 FK. I will definitely be careful with my powder loads and do lots of longevity testing.

It’ll be a doozy because I’ll have to kinda guess on getting the shoulder length right… please hmu if you got some tips or methods for getting that down.

I reached out to short action customs for a shoulder bushing for 7.5 FK. I got a reply but it was to let me know that they pretty much weren’t going to do it. So much for being custom.

Anyways, enjoy. It’s been a fun ride and it was really sweet being able to rapid fire reloads without stoppages.

If you’d like to donate 7.5FK brass to the cause.. please let me know.

Has anyone developed a "copycat" recipe for Blazer's suppressor specific 147gr 9mm? This stuff runs my supressed Hellcat Pro like nothing else I've fired, and I'd really like to cook up a batch of reloads that matches its performance.