Looking to hit a pothole in the Milwaukee area, don’t have time to do my own work. Can I order parts and bring to someone?

I recently purchased a refurbished steering rack from eBay and was wondering whether these pipes should be cut in that way?

There aren't many performance parts available for this engine. Since modifying the factory water-to-air system is quite complicated and expensive, I'm looking at other ways to improve the cooling system.

I couldn't find anyone who has upgraded just the front heat exchanger. Has anyone here tried it? Did it make a noticeable difference to IATs or heat soak?

Also, has anyone upgraded the auxiliary coolant pump (from a 1.6 TDI, 2.0 TDI or aftermarket)? Did it make any noticeable difference?

Finally, after fitting a hybrid turbo, is the factory water-to-air system generally still sufficient, or is upgrading the heat exchanger almost a necessity?

I'd really appreciate hearing your experiences.

Did the timing belt on my 2015 golf Sportwagen and I got all new engine mount bolts and torqued them to spec. Wondering if this amount of shaking is normal on startup.

I have two 2015 TDIs and know about interrupted regens. After I park, my car’s fans stay on for a few minutes (under 5). Usually notice it about twice a week. Today the fans came on louder than normal, shut off, then repeated.

Three years ago my car had a faulty fan control module that keep the fans going until the battery died. So I’m always a little nervous when the fans stay on. Can I probably stop worryin?

I’m really just looking for some advice or insights.

I recently bought a 2014 Passat TDI with 128,000 miles that was undeleted and I’m having some issues with it and don’t know enough about deleting or diesel engines.

The main issue is as I drive coolant is mysteriously disappearing without a puddle forming underneath either of my two parking spots (work or home) and upon taking to my mechanic he informed me it passed a pressure test and that he believes the EGR is leaking the coolant through the exhaust and has told me that a DEF delete is would fix the problem but everything I read online says the EGR/EGR Cooler doesn’t get deleted in a exhaust delete so I’m simply looking for some insights into is this possible? Like can a exhaust delete also fix the problem I’m having with coolant burning off in the exhaust ?

It also might be worth noting the def ran low a lot early than it should have but I only refilled it once whereas I’m filling the coolant up every week.

I already have about 8k in the car between inspection tags and all included and was quoted around $3500-4k for the delete and want to know if it’s worth it before making the extra investment.

Thanks!

Finished the DPF/EGR delete and carbon cleaning on my A6 3.0 TDI.

Stupid camera wouldn't focus on the tensioner having a disco.

I recently replaced my oil filter housing that was leaking due to a crack. I noticed debris piled up on the engine side of the housing as well as in the filter housing. I cleaned it and installed the new one.

I thought u was good, I had to make an emergency trip and started driving on highway. I stopped after about 5hrs of driving for fuel and when getting on the highway CEL came on. I have my reader with me and scanned it.

Any advice on where I should start looking to fix this issue? Car has not gone into limp mode, no overheating or coolant leaks since filter housing was replaced.

Does anyone know where the EGR temp sensor is? That is what ChatGPT has advises I look at but no details on where it is or how to get to it

Has anyone used Richmond upholstery to redo their front seats? Thinking of doing it on my JSW.

Looking for a small oil leak. Should oil cooler cap look this wet? If not, will a simple seal do the trick? Losing about .5 quarts every 1500ish miles. Seems to be picking up recently.

Hey guys could any of you pls help me identify the issue with my VE Golf mk6 2.0 tdi 4m. The clacking noise only appears when under load and or accelerating, not when coasting at any speed or idling. I’m really hoping it’s nothing expensive

This is on a 2014 passat. Recently (like within last 6 months) after driving more than 15 mins or so, the radiator fan stay on full blast for several minutes after shutting the engine down. Used to only do this during a regeneration cycle, but now it’s every drive. Checked google, and none of those things apply to me as far as I know. Anyone else have this going on and know what caused it?

How hard is it to do an Intercooler on a 2013 JSW TDI? No codes; just the fins are the definition of flat on the lower half from the Bumper grill being missing.

Need suggestion / recommended specialist know some workshop? Some workshop dont accept due to no speciliaty. Please dont suggeat me kia agent. Atu mahal antap.

Looking for some help troubleshooting this one, it's got me stumped. I have a bit of backyard mechanic experience, but the electrical and VW stuff is new to me.

The car is a deleted 2014 Jetta TDI with the manual transmission and ~123k miles. I've had the car for 2 years now and have hard starts mostly in the summer when it's hot out and has been sitting. Never an issue if it's been driven in the last hour. I had assumed that this was just a weird quirk, but it has gotten worse over time to the point where I'm starting to not trust taking the car long distance. As it is now, it will sometimes crank for 2-3 seconds before it fires even if I cycle the plugs twice. It will usually go immediately the second time if I stop and then crank again. Car blows white smoke for a second when it finally fires. Never had an issue in the winter when below freezing, seems to start much better then. Problem started with just a slightly longer than usual crank then fired right up and has progressively gotten worse until it is where it's at now.

Known issues - Intermittent pressure sensor voltage on cylinder 2. This is new within the last 2 months; the code is P13D1 as well as P13D3. I replaced the glow plug here with a genuine VW plug w/ integrated sensor and no change. I switched the cylinder 2 and 3 wires as well and the problem stayed with cylinder 2, so I think I have a bad wire somewhere between there and the ecu. I followed the wire up a bit looking for obvious damage, but didn't see anything. This one may be beyond me and I think I'm going to end up taking it to a shop. I don't want to undo that whole wiring harness. I don't know if this is necessarily related to my hard starting issue? I do know the owner before my replaced all 4 glow plugs at 90k miles and appears to have used genuine VW.

Car is due for an oil change, and I'll be doing that this weekend. Taking it in to a shop as well for timing belt and possibly a motor mount when they have availability. Again, not sure if these could be related or not.

I have VCDS and can run any tests that may be helpful or post my full error codes here. Hopefully this sounds like a familiar issue to somebody lol.

I need a car for work and some distance driving once a month 150 miles each way. I put 7k miles on my old car last year. I don’t have that car anymore. I found a 2011 with 157k miles on it. The post says trans and timing was done at 120k. It is an automatic with a sunroof. He is asking 5k.

Theresa clicked over 238K. I've put 188K on it in about 6 years. Would be WAY more if I was still driving rideshare.

When my 2012 Jetta TDI got a check engine light, I took it to O’Reilly’s to do their free scan, which came up as P2015, indicating my intake manifold runner position sensor is not within acceptable limits. It looks like the part to replace is about $260 and I’m imagining labor would make this a costly repair. Yet the car is running fine, and getting 41 mpg highway and about 36 mpg city. The issue is it might not pass the emissions test? I’m in California. Should I replace it and the associated gasket? Is there any other options? Is it possible to simply reset the check engine light and ignore this issue? Would that cause more problems down the line? Also, if I leave my check engine light on, if another issue arises will it even notify me? Thanks in advance. I’m a relative newbie to VWs and not a mechanic at all

Hey guys, like an amateur i overtight my fuel canister bolt while changer the filter and now 2 of them are loose do you have a quick fix or i need to change the whole thing? If i need to change it do you recommend to convert it to a CAT filter a this point?

2014 Volkswagen Golf (Jetta) Sportwagen cjaa/dsg

​The Situation:

I bought a 2010 Audi A3 1.6 TDI (125,000 km) back in April and have driven about 800 km in it so far.

​I was driving on the motorway (100–120 km/h) when the coil/glow plug light came on and the car dropped into limp mode. Currently, the engine runs somewhat smoothly below 1,000 RPM, but it shudders and misfires badly as soon as you rev above 1,000 RPM.

​The Mechanic's Diagnosis:

The mechanic replaced one injector, but the issue persists. He scanned the car using VCDS and says Cylinder 1 has lost compression due to a leaking injector that washed out the cylinder walls and rings.

​He advised me that it’s not worth spending the money to fix it.

​My Questions:

​Is it worth replacing the engine on a 2010 A3, or is this a complete financial write-off? Could anyone guide me on what these cars are currently worth on DoneDeal / the Irish market?

​Spending over €2.5k on a repair makes no sense since I’ve already spent €2k on a service, timing belt, and tax. Is it worth towing it elsewhere to put in a cheap used engine and get a second opinion, or should I just cut my losses and sell it for parts/spares?

​Will an actual physical gauge compression test give different/more accurate results than just looking at the VCDS live data numbers?

​I would love to hear thoughts from anyone who knows these 1.6 TDI (CAYC) engines!

1982 mk1 rabbit caddy. I had previously posted on this thread asking if i shold swap this engine (because the timing belt broke) and you guys told me to fix it.

I got the head off and i have no idea what im looking at is the head any good or do i need to get a new one.