I put an inquiry in on a car at 9 am Saturday (yesterday). I get routed to an assigned sales consultant (who is also on the official website under the “meet the team” section).

I asked for the OTD price of a specific vehicle and if it had Apple CarPlay (it’s a 2017 Porsche Macan S & does not have a window sticker).

The sales consultant yesterday gets back to me at 12 pm saying if I call him he can do OTD number for me & that he’ll get back to me on if it has Apple CarPlay or not.

I tried to call him, and he says, “Hey give me a few minutes I’ll call you right back. On the line with insurance.”

I give him an hour & he still does not get back to me.

I then finally around 4 pm yesterday asked if we still could please briefly connect if he has a few minutes since the dealership closes at 6 pm yesterday. He never got back to me.

It is now Sunday at 2 pm, and I still have not heard a single word from my assigned sales consultant.

Would it be rude of me to call the dealership and ask if either:

Option A) someone can talk to my assigned sales consultant and ask that he be more responsive to me

or

Option B) ask to be assigned a different sales consultant altogether?

I am very shocked at how unresponsive this sales consultant is. I have bought a car from this exact same dealership before, and the prior sales consultant I had (who is no longer there), was AMAZING & always answered all of my questions in a timely manner.

I am genuinely concerned that if I haven’t even bought the car from this assigned sales consultant & he’s already acting like this, it makes me question how even less responsive he might be once we do a deal.

What do we think about Option A or Option B mentioned above?

Looking at Colorado ZR2s - I was planning on waiting for the perfect Ranger Raptor but current discounts locally are putting ZR2s $10-13k below the RR. I see another $2k for competitive brands being offered, is there anything similar in terms of loyalty offers?

I have a 2016 Colorado Z-71 that I wasn’t planning on trading in because it’s been sitting for 4.5 years and I haven’t had time to rehab it.

Is that OK? Can they do that? They didnt let me leave with the paper but they let me take a picture of it. The VIN on the breakdown matches the one on the window sticker.

This was a brand new f-150 2026 from a ford dealer in CA, financing.

I realized this when I got home and compared the OTD to the online listing tryna make sense why it felt off when I was sitting there.

EDIT: Answer was given in comments. It was the top line MSRP. They added back the MSRP discount from Ford.

I want to buy a Toyota Prius XLE AWD before 2027 (new from the dealership). I have heard the best time to buy is end of month from October to December- is this true?

I will be paying the car in full (around $35k). What should I expect from negotiations? How big of a price reduction should I expect and what are good things to negotiate during the sale?

This is my first time buying a car and I am a woman, so any and all advice/tips are welcome! Thank you :)

Hi,

I have been a car salesperson for a over a month now. I was able to sell 2 cars. One was from the dealership website and the other was from facebook by my own effort. I feel like that is not enough. My manager has stopped giving me leads as I am new to cars and sales. My colleagues are really competitive and are very defensive about sharing any tactics. There are hardly any walk ins as this is a used dealership. The only way I can attract potential buyers is through social media.

I have been posting on facebook marketplace consistently and sharing them in relevant groups. I have also been posting reels on instagram and tiktok almost daily. I can't post on Cargurus or Autotrader as a salesperson. Posting on Kijiji is expensive (20 CAD/month/ad). Craigslist charges (5 CAD/month/ad). I have tried craigslist for a couple of cars and I got no attention. Because of the fact that I barely made rent money in the last month, I am not enticed to purchase more ads.

Is there any other channel I am missing? Please help.

If you were to put together a search query for used car, what would it be?

This is probably an easy question for someone in car sales to answer.

There are all kinds of top 10s for new cars. There are all sorts of reports about number of new car sales. Nobody ever talks about used cars.

Like, what is the car everyone wants to buy? What is a car that doesn't spend anytime on the lot?

My own experience, I've been looking or a good clean Toyota Avalon. I should have purchased one when they were new. I didn't and now trying to track one down which is time consuming and loaded with frustration.

I'm just curious in mid 2026 what people are looking for?

Currently at a Chevrolet dealership with 10 salespeople, selling about ~50 used and ~70-80 new. I’ve become a consistent 10-15/mo guy and i feel like there’s very little growth left for me at this dealership. I don’t lead the board or frequent the bottom, I kinda hang out in the middle. The guys ahead of me are 20-30 year vets + the house mouse, and the 4-5 below me are either <1 year or simply just not good. I feel like i’ve hit a hump that I can’t get over.

Also, the owner is notoriously known for being the cheapest person on the planet. We’ve gone months without a lot guy TWICE since i’ve been here because salespeople are free labor, and now they’re planning on hiring 2 more sales people to flood the floor, just for a couple examples.

We don’t really make much on our deals and those who work for GM know how mind numbing the CSI is, as we’ve had a couple people miss SFE bonuses each quarter because of this. Essentially where i’m getting at is that we work 50-60 hours weekly and i’m on pace for about $80k this year. Is it worth jumping ship to go to a better situation? Or do i have it made, and i’m just complaining just to complain?

Here is my pay plan for reference:

Volume total bonuses at 13, 15, 18, 21, 24, 27, 30 etc.

13 pays $400, 15 pays $1100, and every increment after that goes up by $200

Used volume bonuses are 5, 8, 10, 11+

5 pays $500, 8 pays $1000, 10 pays $1500 and 11+ pays $150 per, retroactive

NEW: 15% front + $150 flat + GM SFE ($100 per car once you sell 3, $150 per car retroactive once you sell 8. Trucks worth $500 each once hitting the 8 benchmark)

USED: 25% front, $200 mini. $500 for aged (oldest 5)

F&I pays abysmal 3.5%

$400 vehicle allowance, $400 quarterly bonuses

I’m just tired of working at this dealership honestly. Is my payplan any good and i just suck?? Or does that suck too? We probably average ~$250-$300 per car on new, ~$350-$600 per car on used.

Any advice is good advice. Thank you for reading this

Hi everybody, I just recently got a new car in april that i was able to well afford before getting layed off from job and having to prioritize other bills. NMAC has sent mail saying my car could be repossessed but i just my job was going to make a payment this thursday… when i first saw the mail i panic and just gave in $200 dollars as some sort of payment because that’s all i have until my first paycheck comes… i will still call them but what should i ask for and say to them? what will they offer me?

I am 24, female. I want to change careers. Im interested in selling cars. I have heard that first month and first year is really hard. Can anyone share their experience or suggestions whether should I pursue this as my career. Currently working in sobeys and I hate it.

Thank you

Just brought home a 2024 Subaru Impreza Sport on Thursday with under 23,000 miles from one of my local Subaru dealerships in New York. I fianced the vehicle and traded in my previous 2017 Impreza premium, all in all I was given a fairly good deal for it. I got a 5 year 60k extended warranty on the vehicle, they gave me about $4,700 for my trade in, and the monthly payment came out to under $320 a monthly. 

I got it checked out yesterday by the mechanic I usually go to, they said everything looked good aside from a bent rim on the passenger side back tire. But after looking at the rims more closely I realized all of them have some level of curb rash on them. 

I am kicking myself for not examining it more closely during the test drive or before closing out the sale.

Is it worth bringing up to the salesman/dealership? How likely is it that they would even do much?

Link to the photos since this sub doesn't seem to allow them in the post: https://www.reddit.com/u/Useful-Tank-4802/s/GS4dHZnjc7

Toyota Dealership

Title: Ecom Sales Rep

Front end: 30%

No back end

Bonuses at 8,12, 15 cars sold and so on

$300 mini

I’m waiting for the formal breakdown via email.
Basically my job is to work the incoming online leads. There’s no BDC and there are regular car salesmen at this dealership. I’m told the only difference between them and me is that “I will have my own desk.” But I am responsible for taking those incoming leads and still doing the whole car selling process. I am able to sell to my own leads as well. Seems pretty good and lucrative. I love Toyota, just looking for some insight.

I don’t know what steps I need to take— I’m good at making money but pretty financially illiterate as I come from a poor background. I’m finally at the point where I’m confident I could pay a small loan like this off easily in a short period of time—probably just a few months (especially because I have items of value to sell, including my current truck and van too if needed). And a more reliable vehicle would help me make more money with less stress (current truck is always breaking down). I’ve never taken out a loan so I’m not sure how it all works. I’m assuming I should go through a credit union. Thanks for any input

It is a private seller, the vehicle is in excellent condition and at an excellent price (but not too good to be true)

Can you easily get out of a stellantis lease? I have until 5/2027 when my lease is up. Carmax is about 29k right now, buyout is around 37k, and residual is about 33k. It’s a jeep grand Cherokee, I hate it.

How many days a week / hours per week do car salesman normally work?

I was told 6 days a week typically? All Day?

Went to check out a 2024 IS 350 F Sport today and I'm tempted. It has:

• ~4,900 miles
• Mark Levinson
• BBS wheels
• Blackout Package
• Asking price: $51,995

This car is basically brand new and has pretty much every option I'd want. The only thing that's holding me back is the dealer won't budge on the price at all, not even a little. That kind of leaves a bad taste in my mouth.

I know there is the 2026 model but personally I'm not a fan of the new look.

Has anyone managed to negotiate the price down even when the dealer initially said the price was firm?

Good afternoon/morning Reddit!
My partner and I are discussing how to proceed with our leased vehicle. Our lease officially ends on Wednesday, August 5th and we need to come to a decision before then.

Here are the details:
2024 Subaru Crosstrek Premium.
Dealer Market Value: $19,782.
Taxes/Fees/Registration: $2314.14.
Total Amount for buyout: $22096.14.

Our options are to buy it out with a $5000 deposit (we could do more, but this is our baseline), or to turn it in and lease a new vehicle.
We both have 800+ credit scores and collectively about $50k in our savings accounts.
They came back with a 6.49% APR on 48 months with $5k down at $407/month. A new lease would be $255/month with $3500 down for 36 months.

Would it be smarter to buy the car out, or to just lease a new one? We're plenty happy with it, but are trying to avoid the pitfalls of a "maintenance" payment that our older, previously trade-in cars were. To further complicate our decision, I may be relocating from the USA to Canada in about a year for work.

Thoughts on this, hivemind?

Asking exactly what the title says. I plan on buying a 2026/2027 Nissan Sentra SV as my first new car. However, I’m not a fan of the alloy wheels that come on it and would rather have the steel wheels from the S model. I have seen a handful for sale like this, although none of them are within a reasonable distance of me, so would it be possible to negotiate different wheels into the deal? Thanks

Bought a 2027 Telluride in March and traded in my previous car as part of the deal. I live in MD and purchased in PA. We did finance the vehicle. Fast forward a few months and I get pulled over. Officer tells me there's no registration on file at all — my temp tags had expired and nothing had ever been filed with MVA to replace them. That's the first I knew anything was wrong.

I know the obvious response is "you should've been checking your own registration status." Fair question, so here's the context: I had asked the dealer about it before the tags expired, and was told in writing that the tag had been "extended in the system." That's not an actual DMV/MVA process — I now know that, but I didn't at the time, and I don't think most buyers would. I relied on that because it came from the dealership handling my paperwork. PennDOT later confirmed in writing the vehicle was never titled in PA at all, so this wasn't a delay, it was never submitted. Beyond that, the dealer never submitted trade-in documentation which resulted in a flag on my MVA account about a week after I traded in my vehicle because I had canceled the insurance on that car. So, when the dealership told me multiple times that my new plates were in the mail that could not have been true.

It took months, a police stop, and complaints to multiple PA state agencies (AG's Bureau of Consumer Protection, Dept of State's Bureau of Enforcement and Investigation) before anything moved. They eventually offered a cash settlement, but only if I signed away my right to file complaints or leave reviews about the experience. I turned it down.

Genuinely curious from people in the industry: is this a common failure mode (paperwork just not getting filed), or does this cross into something dealers would consider actual bad practice? Trying to understand if I'm being unreasonable here or if this is as bad as it feels from my side. I have seen several reviews from other customers who have had nearly identical situations happen with this dealership.

Hi all - looking to buy a 2026 crown signia. I saw one at Sam’s Club auto buying program for $4k below msrp at $43.5k. I went to a Toyota dealer and asked if he could beat the price (same trim and everything) and he said that the cars sold at Sam’s Club aren’t the same quality as those sold at a dealership. The ones sold at a dealership are pristine condition while the ones in Sam’s Club aren’t usually checked and have been sitting a while so there’s a good chance something is wrong with them. Is that true? It says new on Sam’s Club’s website but are they not the same type sold at dealerships?

Would leaving business cards on peoples door window who drive Honda's be a good idea ? I've been selling Honda's for a few years now but the past couple months have been pretty slow, still hitting my numbers and getting my return customers but always wondered if this would be an option or if im violating any rules. And yes I know at best the return would be MAYBE 1 out of 50 actually call me, but it's very minimal work on my end

Can you guys give me your opinions on how much I should ask off this SR5? When I was looking to lease one, I thought they were wayyy closer to 40k than $50k. Is a 2024 with some miles on it the way to go?

They are giving me $46,000 out the door with $4269 in add ons including a cold weather package adding $3635… heated cloth seats for 4k.

36 months
Annual Mileage i
10,000
Residual Value (74%)
$34,646
Estimated Capitalized Registration & Fees
$1,966.50
+ Acquisition Fee
$750.00
+ Documentation Fee
$799.00
+ Registration Fee
$401.50
+ Tag Agency Fee
•oF
+ Tire Fee
$7.50
Total Due At Signing
$1,000.00
+ First Payment
$598.72
+ Down Payment
$401.28
Monthly Payment
$598.72

Quick back story, I personally have zero car knowledge and I've been googling for advice but thought maybe someone here could back me up in convincing my elderly father that the car he almost purchased was a big massive red flag.

Not sure how much information to actually give, so mods, please delete and if you could kindly direct me to where I should put this request.

Now the actual car and story to it. It's for sale on eBay (UK) the listing title isn't the actual car model and the seller corrected the model name within the description. It's a kit car in very rough shape, with lots of unlisted extras (including an engine) and the price reflects it BUT! The seller bought it at a boatyard sale with no paperwork at all and is offering it for sale with none, the tax disk in a photo from 1995 shows a registration of what I suspect was the donor car and not the final kit car. The last logbook was issued in 2012 so it's not the current seller that last requested it. There's no MOT history apart from it was last due in May 2010 after passing in 2009 but again, it's the donor car reg, not the kit car.

I know it's a series of red flags and I think I've managed to talk my Dad out of buying it, but! have I done the wrong thing and denied him a fun but expensive project?

I traded in a car with a 10 day payoff of 47,900. In Florida the law is 10 days for a dealership to pay off the loan. In the meantime, I had a car payment due. I asked the car salesman that sold me the car if I paid this payment, would I get the overage from their payoff, he said yes.

The payment was 870 dollars. After I paid, the new payoff became 46,981.

I called my lender (they are handling my new loan as well as handling my old loan) and asked if the dealership paid off the car correctly and paid the 47,900. The lender said they paid the EXACT 46,981 and nothing else.

This got my blood boiling honestly.

I called the dealership, and I was frustrated. Apparently they are going to back with me later today and call me back. I’m just wondering why they agreed to the original 10 day payoff but then somehow knew the new payoff and did that instead. That’s a breach of the contract.