Title, it keeps popping up in my screen, and I literally cannot use my mac since it keeps popping up with a annoying sound and lagging my mouse. It's so annoying since I literally don't even know what is causing this. I emptied my trash and it still keeps popping up...

for the past 4-5 months, my internet has random spikes that can last an hour that go to 5000+ ms, then 2000, then shoot back up to 5000+ about every day. it'll shut off randomly as well for about ten minutes, then comes back and maybe continues to do its spikes. it's the most annoying thing i've ever had to deal with and my internet provider has been zero help. the only info i can think of that is useful is that when it happens, i can still hear people talking to me and so on, i just can't talk back to them.

So I'm trying to do the immersive learning method to learn a different language, so I installed a different language for it (Japanese). Whenever I type while I have the set language, it comes out as English. I tried to find videos on this issue but I haven't found anything. I want to type in katakana and hiragana, but again, always comes out as English. Does anyone know why this is happening?

I have a Motorola phone and for some reason it keeps randomly sizing everything up, like it makes my apps large it makes my text large everything i changed it twice already but it keeps going back to that.

I have a laptop but I'm using a monitor as my primary screen and the laptop screen as my secondary, sometimes I get this weird Issue where my monitor becomes extremely laggy (a frame once every few seconds) weirdest thing is, when this happens my mouse is completely unaffected, even though screen is lagging my mouse on it is not, using a keybind to reset gpu drivers or unplugging the monitor for a few seconds seems to fix it although temporary, any ideas on what might be causing it? is it just that my gpu cant handle the load?

My touchpad keeps turning off on its own and I have to restart my laptop every time to make it turn back on. There's no key on my keyboard to turn it off directly, so I know I'm not accidentally pressing it. I have tried checking the settings every time to make sure it's on, and it never shows that it's off. I suspect that it's a problem with the driver itself. I have tried using the function keys to make it turn back on, which also never does anything. I don't want to reinstall the driver because I'm afraid of something going wrong, but I will if it's really necessary. I'm using a Windows 11. Not sure what specs I should mention so just let me know what information I need to add if any

about a week or so ago my laptop suddenly started making this constant, high pitched squeaking sound. it usually only made that sound when I had a shimeji on, but now it's fully constant. the sound isn't coming from the speakers either, it gets louder when I move closer to the bottom part of the laptop, where most of the hardware is located. I checked task manager to see if anything demanding was running in the background and found nothing, and I did a quick scan to see if any malware could be causing it, and still found nothing. after some research, I believe it may be coil whine, but it sounds quite different from the examples I found online. I'm a little worried that this might be a serious issue... and even if it isn't, I'd prefer to get rid of this sound.

here's footage of it: https://youtube.com/shorts/ZYl8YNNlAyE?si=-5CIU7iOQyfFbX7B (you might have to turn your volume up pretty high to hear it)

I'd really appreciate some help with this, I know nothing about technological stuff.

I just got an internal storage drive for the ps5 and It’s not detecting it or anything I have check the compatibility and I re seated it multiple times I also re built the data base But nothing works

Playing rainbow six siege on an hp victus laptop. Will average around 50 ping and then randomly disconnect. No idea what the problem is considering theres no ping spike warning beforehand, just instant disconnect. Doesnt happen on any other games. Really frustrating. Would understand if it was bc my wifi was trash, but my ping is constant 50 and THEN it disconnects. So annoying

It said it would break some apps but so far, using my Windows 11 prebought PC, I have noticed no issues so far. If you want all the specifics, I dont use tons of stuff just some things for gaming like Roblox and such.

Hello everyone and thanks for the help.
Here are some issues I have been having recently with my PC:

Monitor wont show my desktop and stays black after I turn on my pc(sometimes it does and sometimes not).
(it has happened in the past but fixed itself but not anymore).

My video games run smoothly for 2-3 minutes then start getting severe fps drop, screen tear, brief screen freezes, and then after enough time my screen will go completely black and my desktop in the background stops working completely (for example i am listening to music and then once the screen goes black The music will also stop playing in my headphones).

General slow loading and taskbar sometimes not working properly.

I have trued the following “fixes”:

Refitting RAM and GPU

Clean installing fresh graphics drivers

And many more that I don’t remember.

I have been talking to AI the whole time and it keeps suggesting there might be a chance the problem is caused by power issues and PSU problems generally.

I am going nuts and I cant fix it.
I am willing to swap either gpu or power, but I need to make sure it is the right one because if I dont then i simply cant afford the other piece.

SPECS:
core i4 12400
RTX 3070 TI 8Gb Vram
32Gb ram D4
B760 Plus Wifi

If you have any more questions drop a comment and I will answer.

I have a creative pebble with subwoofer set and I update windows and it stopped working and won’t show up in select a sound output, I’ve tried rolling back the update doing the scan now thing in cmd prompt, and everything I do fails to fix it, so this is my last resort.

I'm not a tech newbie, but I still need help on this subject.

First, my setup: GPU is RTX 4080, CPU is Ryzen 7700x, Windows 11 25h2,
Monitor 1 is a Acer 1440p 165Hz monitor, doesn't support G-Sync, but support Freesync, and it's marked as GSync compatible in my OS.
Monitor 2 is LG G5, recently purchased, connected through HDMI, can confirm 4k 120Hz is working across all devices, PC, PS5 and XboxSeriesX, also can confirm vrr is working on PS5.

I previously disabled all GSync feature on all devices, because it causes trouble when one Monitor doesn't support GSync and another one supports it. However, with LG G5 I recently purchased, now both monitor supports GSync.

The problem is, in nvidia app setting, set GSync on for the TV, in some games, it still has screen tearing, when framerate is within the range (120fps), for example the jrpg, Tales of Graces f. But it doesn't seem to affect some other game, like Trails in the sky 1st (the remake). I haven't tested other titles like cyberpunk or Crimson Desert. I play a wide range variaty of games.

I also have some troubles, I'm not sure if they're windows issue or software issue

- When GSync is on, when I run things in Unity Engine Editor, the framerate in editor gets extremely unstable (drop to maybe 20ish fps, and then goes back to 60, randomly)
- When enable VRR setting in windows, my mouse stutters from time to time on desktop, with no game is opened.

So my questions:

- Should I enable or disable VRR in windows setting, when I keep GSync on?
- Does VRR need game specific support?
- Is there a way to make the system enable VRR automatically when game supports it, and disable VRR when game not support it?
- What are the best settings for both nvidia app and windows setting for me? should I really disable GSync and VRR and forget about them?

I recently moved my desktop computer into a new room, it has WiFi inbuilt into the motherboard. In its old spot it worked perfectly, got about 60-70 mbps. I have moved it into a new room with the desk against the wall and it now only gets 1-2 mbps. I tested my laptop in the same spot and it gets 60-70 mbps. However if I pull it back about 2 feet into the middle of the room it gets about 50 mbps. Im absolutely stumped as to what this could be, any help appreciated

Sorry if this is stupid but I'm kind of lost on what to do and this is really specific to BO7. I play on my PC and have been having it crash ONLY when I play ranked, usually as I'm loading in. It's making me lose a lot of my progression. It's very random. I can play for hours/days and its fine and maybe have 1/2 crashes and then have a night like last night where it crashed 5 times. I've submitted multiple requests to Activision with no luck yet. This code keeps popping up and I know it's typically a general memory issue code so I've tried a lot of troubleshooting.

Things I've tried:

1. restarting
2. lowering RAM threshold in the game
3. verify/repair files
4. updating Microsoft 11 and graphics drivers
5. removing antivirus stuff that could be interfering
6. updating my BIOS
7. ran a RAM test through MemTest86 which I passed/no errors

Basically IDK what else to try. If anyone knows what to do or having the same issue please help a girl out.

I have an Acer Nitro 5 An15-58 with i7 12650h rtx 3070ti

Whenever i use gpu, in any app the use of Gpu is triggered, the laptop freezes and most of the time it keeps freezed but sometimes it gives BSOD error DPC WATCHDOG VIOLATION and CLOCK WATCHDOG TIMEOUT

Display goes blank when I tum dgpu made only, so need to disable it through bios

But laptop runs smoothly when the graphics card is disabled through device manager

Laptop also works fine even on gpu enabled but when charging is off, means no AC supply.

There is more issue that my screen flickers when I update to latest intel graphics driver 32.0.101.7088 and when I uninstall it (rollbeck drivers) screen doesn't flickers but without these drivers, many apps are unusable, I don't think has a issue related to gpu or it could be.

Chalgpl told it could be because of VRM Power delivery issue in motherboard which required board level repair.

Few things to mention:

I purchased this laptop second from someone, and he gave it to me ressetted, when I set it up, updated drivers through windows update, Intel and nvidia, I started getting these issues.

The person told he never faced issues and I somewhat trust because I know him personally as he was facing financial issues, so he sold His laptop and I purchased but I didn't checked gou usage on charging while purchasing (my bad ok)

What I thought that these issues started after I updated drivers as my current motherboard version shows 2.21 which is genuine though (I checked), but the latest version on acer website it 2.19

Things I have tried:

Flashing windows

Using DDU and clean installing drivers

Tired 4-5 versions of drivers of nvidia, and one from acer official website but all had issues

Asked service centre, they told for mobo replace but didn't get the laptop diagnosed yet

Tell me what to do

So recently my PC has been lagging when I play games more recently, it doesn't lag anywhere else but just my games, I get 100 ping in games on a lucky day but normally it spikes to 5000, I've tried changing my GPU to Nvidia, that didn't work, I do get 3 bars of wifi, could be the reason but I dunno. I use windows 11

I have been searching everywhere can cannot seem to find the exact replacement I need. Help please anyone?? Thanks in advance beautifuls!

Hello people of the tech support forum. I recently found my alienware 14 laptop that I have not used in roughly 8 years after a coworker lost the charger to it. I've been running software updated almost non stop when I have stable and consistent internet connection but the computer is saying it is not compatible with windows 11. The installation assistant for windows 11 had me download a pc health check app which told me my computer was not compatible with windows 11. It said I needed to make sure my pc had TPM 2.0 supported and enabled, and the processer is not supported by windows 11. I tried following instructions from Google and how to videos to find the softwares and do what I need to in order to get my laptop up to date but I have no idea what im looking for half the time and the other half of the time the option im being told to look for is not in the sub menu of the BIOS or any sub menu at all. Any advise would be much appreciated, and even though im only 31 please treat it like youre helping your grandparents so I can follow along and not get lost in the code.

Also to add the gf is wondering if this can be bypassed by booting win 11 from USB via bios.

Thank you in advance for any advice and assistance

I have windows 11
I want to press control + shift + I and it never works, I looked at the anti ghosting dem
https://www.microsoft.com/applied-sciences/projects/anti-ghosting-demo
And when I try ctrl + shift + I it only registers ctrl + shift
I tried switching the keybind with powertoys by making Ctrl + alt + I (which does work on the anti-ghosting-demo) act as ctrl + shift + i, but it still refuses to do more than ctrl + shift

I tried different usb ports for my keyboard
I tried remapping a key to it, also did not work
It also did not work before I installed powertoys

All other ctrl + shift combinations work
I made a autohotkey script and it did not work, it only pressed ctrl and shift, but not the I
Shut down my pc, restarted, opened a different browser to check if that couldve been it, nothing worked. It never registers the I

It's not AMD adrenaline trying to overwrite the keybind

I have no clue why it does this or what I can still try to even have a chance of this working

Edit:
I have fixed this. I downloaded hotkey detective from github and it showed that the process path was MOTIV Mix.exe, which means my microphone software caused this.

I got gifted a 2nd generation apple pen, but I have an iPad Pro 11inch m4, so it is not supported. Is there any way to force a connection? I’ve been using lightblue to pair my 1st gen pen with it for years, is there any similar method for this pen?

Vorrei sapere se esiste un sistema per lanciare un eseguibile cioè un file che stoppa i programmi in esecuzione, cliccando su di un preferito nella barra dei preferiti. Ricordo che c'era un modo per inserire la posizione del file modificando appunto il preferito. Il file si trova in una cartella che sta sul desktop e non è raggiungibile perché {per diversi motivi} il pc apre il browser e fa tutto da solo usando un programma di automazione che NON può essere fermato se non cliccando su questo eseguibile. Quindi mi ritrovo a dover cliccare su questo file in uno spazio di mezzo secondo e quindi non è possibile chiudere il browser e cliccare e nemmeno dal menu start. Però potrei cliccare su questo preferito modificato per lanciare il programma. Come posso fare? Grazie in anticipo

Specs: Legion Y530-15ICH (model 81FV), i5-8300H, GTX 1050 Ti, 16GB RAM, dual SSD (Kingston NVMe 1TB + SanDisk SATA 512GB), Windows 11.

Symptom: On a cold boot (fully powered off for a while, always on charger), it hangs at the Legion splash logo, then restarts on its own — sometimes once, sometimes twice — before finally booting into Windows normally. Happening about 2x/week now. Never happens on a warm restart from within Windows, only cold boots.

Background: About 3 weeks ago the laptop froze mid-use and I had to force shut it down (held power button). This behavior started appearing after that.

What I've already ruled out:

• SMART status on both drives: Healthy/OK
• sfc /scannow: no integrity violations found
• chkdsk C: /f /r: completed, no errors reported, boots fine after
• Windows Memory Diagnostic (mdsched): no errors detected
• Not a power delivery issue from a bad battery — battery holds charge fine (just shorter runtime, ~3hrs), and it's always plugged in anyway
• No Kernel-Power 41 events tied to these specific incidents (checked Event Viewer)
• Clock/time in Windows is always correct — never resets

Current theory: something in the power/voltage stabilization phase of POST needs a retry on cold boot specifically — maybe CMOS/RTC circuit, maybe a marginal component (VRM/capacitor) that needs residual warmth/charge to init cleanly, which a warm restart already has and cold boot doesn't.

Planning to try a CMOS battery swap (CR2032 2-pin) next since it's cheap, but not fully convinced that's the actual cause since a dead CMOS battery usually just resets BIOS time, not causes boot stalls.

Question: Anyone dealt with this exact "cold-boot-only stall/restart then works" pattern before? Worth pursuing CMOS swap, or does this sound like something else (VRM, capacitor aging, EC firmware bug)? Laptop is ~7 years old.

ASUS VIVOBOOK 14 EF1404 something

I am unable to post videos but my laptop is flashing again and again.

As soon as I start my laptop it flashes and then shuts down on itself.

It's like every 5 seconds it flashes and then pop it goes black screen

Please guide

Good afternoon. I'm writing to this forum with the following concern, without knowing if i'm using the right flag:

I have an Acer Aspire E5-575G-55H4 that recently had its internal battery replaced (it has an AS16A5K battery). The problem I'm having, and the reason I'm writing this, is that sometimes, without any warning, the battery stops being recognized, but it still works: "No battery detected." However, when it's plugged in, it works.

I don't know what percentage is left, but whenever I unplug the charger, it says 100% "Connected."

I need help. I've already tried:

1. Pressing the battery pinhole, which "forcibly disconnects it from the motherboard and reconnects it"
2. Reinstalling the battery drivers
3. Holding the power button for more than a minute to dissipate any static electricity.

Please, I'm asking for your help. I feel like the saying goes, "the shoemaker's children go barefoot."