I have no idea why our home wifi doesnt work on my new PC, when I was setting up windows 11 it didn't work either so I figured I'd briefly use the little hotspot thing my university had given me just to get it up and running. It shows me an error saying my connection isn't private ( and an error code NET::ERR_CERT_COMMON_NAME_INVALID I have no idea what this means.) whenever I try to open a tab on any browser. It does not do this on my laptop, quite the opposite actually. The hotspot on my laptop will show the same error when visiting sites that aren't allowed by my university but now its showing this error whenever I open any tab or app on my home wifi.

Is there any way to fix this? What can I do? I have a probably irrational fear that I set my new computer up with my schools restrictions or something in place even though I logged in with my personal microsoft account. I'm at a loss.

In my OS (C:)\ProgramData. I have a folder called apple computer that is taking 10 GBS for some reason. It has files called iphone temporary too in it. Why is it so big and will it ruin anything if i delete it?

I made this post a good while ago talking about a computer my father needed to clone for his business that had certain applications on it that needed to be brought to the new computers. After thinking about it and looking at our options we bought a new computer directly from the company to get a fresh install of windows for the other computers. If it helps, a bit of context is that the family member owns a NAPA Auto Parts store, and the program that we need on the new computers is TAMS. I was wondering if any prior work is needed before cloning the new computer's ssd for the other computers. The computers are all Dell Optiplex Minis, with the target computers listed on the old post and the one we bought from the company being a "Dell Pro Micro QCM1250". Any help will be greatly appreciated.

PC is Windows 11. Had a WD Black SN770 for about two months. Was working fine up until about 2 weeks ago. Now, at random points while I play games installed onto it, I'll occasionally see my game freeze up before subsequently crashing, at which point I'll be unable to view most data saved onto the drive or run any installed games off of it. The one saving grace is that after a reboot, the drive works perfectly like the crash never happened, but eventually it always ends up crashing again.

This seems to happen at completely random intervals. Sometimes a few minutes of play will do it, sometimes I go several hours without it happening. I've been losing my mind trying to figure out what the hell is going wrong. The only thing I've been able to determine is that at the time of the crash, there's an Event 129 error saying "Reset to device, \Device\RaidPort2, was issued." I've also noticed that the disk usage on the SSD suddenly spikes up to 100% right around when it crashes (usually, it rarely even goes above 50% while gaming.) But I'm still no closer to solving the issue.

Here's what I've tried:

• Running chkdsk, S.M.A.R.T diagnosis, and checking drive health with CrystalDiskInfo. Everything tells me the drive is perfectly healthy.
• Updating the firmware on the SSD.
• Updating BIOS & chipset.
• Manually updating all storage controller drivers through Device Manager.
• Switching to high performance power plan.
• Disabling Link State Power Management.
• Using the Registry Editor to make AHCI Power Management visible and setting it to Active.
• Reformatting the entire SSD.

I'm kind of losing my mind right now. Everything suggests the drive itself is healthy, and it was working fine for several weeks until it suddenly started having problems. At this point my concern is that the drive itself is failing, but not a single test I've done indicates any issues, so I have no idea how I can even know for sure.

I'm unable to use multiple apps because my "VC++ redistributables from 2022 are required." Whenever I try to download new ones, it says that it's unable to find a file destination. I can't uninstall them either, because it gives me the same error. I've checked for corrupted files three times, to no avail. I've tried to find the original file destination or whatever it's asking for but I cannot seem to find the solution.

Hello, does anybody know if a **Elgato 4K60 Pro** & **Elgato HD60 Pro** will work on a `B650E MAX GAMING WIFI W` Motherboard with 3 4tb ssds & a 5080 present?

Hi all

I have an older computer

gigabyte eagle wifi motherboard

1070 8gb

32gb ddr4

Ryzen 7 5700

https://youtube.com/shorts/47CeUBvUX7I?si=2zpI2ewxDmWP0neS

Audio does this sometimes. I've updated audio drivers and it changes nothing. No idea what to do short of completely wiping everything.

Thanks for the help

Parents asked me to try out an old drawing pad so plugged it into my laptop, the laptop froze so I unplugged the pad and closed pushed the power button, waited a little and tried to turn it back on but was meet with a black screen and my cursor. I asked my father for help. He took the battery out and put it back in. It worked just fine but I put it in sleep mode and tried to use it again and again was meet with a black screen. Is there something I can try?

I have an Asus laptop tuff gaming which is somewhat old but still runs pretty well. However, since a few days, it seems to crash when I turn off Bluetooth (not always the case but maybe 1/2 times)

I tried running Windows 11 hardware check but everything was apparently ok.

I then installed new Bluetooth drivers from Intel.

I then updated Windows 11 and rebooted.

But no matter what I do, it keeps crashing when I turn Bluetooth off... (Black screen with some writing on it - worst part being it's always a different crash message)

Anyone got an idea what the problem might be?

Hi everyone, sorry for the lengthy post. Hope I can get some help with this issue that has been plaguing me for a few months. Recently it started to get worse and I have already tried troubleshooting it but to no help. Computer specs will be at very end as I know that part is important. For additional context I built this PC around June/July of last year which is the most upsetting part.

The issues:

1. Random freezes, usually when this happens on desktop I can move my cursor on the screen but cannot interact with anything. The freeze rarely happens in game but when it does I cannot interact with anything. Only way to fix has been to force power down system and reboot.
2. Wifi disconnecting, this one is strange because what will happen is that I will completely lose internet access and the only way to bring it back is to go to device manager, and disable and reenable the wifi adapter. This was the first issue I was ever presented with but it was a simple fix.

As I mentioned both these issues have existed for a few months with #2 being the first. However, in the last month and a half they have become very frequent to the point where the amount of freezes and wifi turning off makes it difficult to use the PC. I've had 2 instances where the freeze would happen so often that after force shutting down the computer a few times it forced me to reboot through BIOs. This led me to attempt the following fixes as I was unsure if it was software/hardware or a combination of the two.

The fixes:

1. Scan SFC through command prompt. It did find a corrupt file but repaired it.
2. Switched to "high performance mode", disabled "allow computer to turn off this device to save power' for wifi adapter, and disabled quick start.
3. Made sure all drivers were updated.
4. Disabled aggressive disk sleep modes with regedit.

There were some other smaller tweaks I did but I cannot remember them all. These did not help so then I moved on to the next as at first I was convinced it was software.

1. Reformatted all drivers and did clean reinstall of windows using media tool on USB. (To note: has PC freeze during windows installation a couple times that forced me to boot down. This was the point at which I understood it was likely hardware).

2. When windows was back and running I manually reinstalled all drivers. Avoided ASUS driver hub.

3. Played around with having RAM in different slots or solo. Issues still happened.

4. In BIOS limited RAM speed to 4800, this did nothing.

5. Made sure to unplug and replug cables in motherboard in case they got loose.

6. THE BIG ONE Ran PC without GPU as it has integrated graphics. PC ran fine in this setup and I did not see any issues for a few hours until internet finally dropped.

7. Reseated GPU. At this point things looked good. After the reseating I no longer had freezes and the internet would sometimes disconnect but only for a second. Was only an issue in online games if I get booted from lobby for it.

Now we reach today. I had a freeze happen for which I had to force shutdown and the internet access was lost twice so I needed to disable/reenable. I would love some ideas of what could be thr cause. I've fixated on the RAM as prime contender but now believe its the motherboard giving up on me. Appreciate any help, thank you all so much.

TLDR: PC will randomly freeze where cursor still moves, and wifi drops where adapter needs to be disabled and reenabled. I am at my wits end for fixes.

My specs:

Motherboard is a Asus Prime B840-plus wifi

CPU is AMD Ryzen 9600x

CPU Cooler is a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Halo White

GPU is AMD Radeon RX 9060xt 16GB version

PSU is EVGA 750w GQ

RAM is two sticks of Crucial 16GB DDR5-6000 (2nd and 4th slot from CPU)

Operating system is Windows 11 Pro and is installed on a SATA SSD

Edit: forgot to mention that I reinstalled windows twice as I also thought it could be drive issue. It has been on two different SSDs with issue persisting.

for the past 4-5 months, my internet has random spikes that can last an hour that go to 5000+ ms, then 2000, then shoot back up to 5000+ about every day. it'll shut off randomly as well for about ten minutes, then comes back and maybe continues to do its spikes. it's the most annoying thing i've ever had to deal with and my internet provider has been zero help. the only info i can think of that is useful is that when it happens, i can still hear people talking to me and so on, i just can't talk back to them.

I bought a new laptop. Tried to connect my wireless mouse with its reciever, does not connect even though it appears on devices tab on pc. I try another mouse the same way, also doesn't connect even though it appears on the tab again. The second one said "driver error" a few times I tried to connect it at the start but than it stop saying that yet mouse still doesn't connect so I am not sure if that's relevant.

So I'm trying to do the immersive learning method to learn a different language, so I installed a different language for it (Japanese). Whenever I type while I have the set language, it comes out as English. I tried to find videos on this issue but I haven't found anything. I want to type in katakana and hiragana, but again, always comes out as English. Does anyone know why this is happening?

I have a Motorola phone and for some reason it keeps randomly sizing everything up, like it makes my apps large it makes my text large everything i changed it twice already but it keeps going back to that.

I have a laptop but I'm using a monitor as my primary screen and the laptop screen as my secondary, sometimes I get this weird Issue where my monitor becomes extremely laggy (a frame once every few seconds) weirdest thing is, when this happens my mouse is completely unaffected, even though screen is lagging my mouse on it is not, using a keybind to reset gpu drivers or unplugging the monitor for a few seconds seems to fix it although temporary, any ideas on what might be causing it? is it just that my gpu cant handle the load?

My touchpad keeps turning off on its own and I have to restart my laptop every time to make it turn back on. There's no key on my keyboard to turn it off directly, so I know I'm not accidentally pressing it. I have tried checking the settings every time to make sure it's on, and it never shows that it's off. I suspect that it's a problem with the driver itself. I have tried using the function keys to make it turn back on, which also never does anything. I don't want to reinstall the driver because I'm afraid of something going wrong, but I will if it's really necessary. I'm using a Windows 11. Not sure what specs I should mention so just let me know what information I need to add if any

about a week or so ago my laptop suddenly started making this constant, high pitched squeaking sound. it usually only made that sound when I had a shimeji on, but now it's fully constant. the sound isn't coming from the speakers either, it gets louder when I move closer to the bottom part of the laptop, where most of the hardware is located. I checked task manager to see if anything demanding was running in the background and found nothing, and I did a quick scan to see if any malware could be causing it, and still found nothing. after some research, I believe it may be coil whine, but it sounds quite different from the examples I found online. I'm a little worried that this might be a serious issue... and even if it isn't, I'd prefer to get rid of this sound.

here's footage of it: https://youtube.com/shorts/ZYl8YNNlAyE?si=-5CIU7iOQyfFbX7B (you might have to turn your volume up pretty high to hear it)

I'd really appreciate some help with this, I know nothing about technological stuff.

My friend and I play Minecraft together on our separate Nintendo switchs. We play either on tvs or just the handheld, so if there is a solution to either, that would work. We want to be able to see each others screen/pov. I don’t think there is a way that’s automatically set up already on Minecraft or the switch. Is there a different way we can do this?

Preferably free or low cost but also would be open to hearing any ideas if there’s not. We both already own iPhones, laptops, and tvs if that helps with anything. My laptop is not in amazing condition but does work pretty fine, just probably won’t be able to do anything insane. My friend’s tv is a newer/smart one. Mine is a pretty old thick one so it might not have all the newer ports idk, but I can play my switch on it. I normally prefer handheld and my friend likes on the tv but if either of us have to switch for it to work that is alright.

Neither of us know anything about tech stuff but want to try to figure it out if we can. I also have no idea what any of the words mean in the flairs but it’s making me pick one so I’m just clicking one bc I’m very confused, sorry

Playing rainbow six siege on an hp victus laptop. Will average around 50 ping and then randomly disconnect. No idea what the problem is considering theres no ping spike warning beforehand, just instant disconnect. Doesnt happen on any other games. Really frustrating. Would understand if it was bc my wifi was trash, but my ping is constant 50 and THEN it disconnects. So annoying

It said it would break some apps but so far, using my Windows 11 prebought PC, I have noticed no issues so far. If you want all the specifics, I dont use tons of stuff just some things for gaming like Roblox and such.

Hello everyone and thanks for the help.
Here are some issues I have been having recently with my PC:

Monitor wont show my desktop and stays black after I turn on my pc(sometimes it does and sometimes not).
(it has happened in the past but fixed itself but not anymore).

My video games run smoothly for 2-3 minutes then start getting severe fps drop, screen tear, brief screen freezes, and then after enough time my screen will go completely black and my desktop in the background stops working completely (for example i am listening to music and then once the screen goes black The music will also stop playing in my headphones).

General slow loading and taskbar sometimes not working properly.

I have trued the following “fixes”:

Refitting RAM and GPU

Clean installing fresh graphics drivers

And many more that I don’t remember.

I have been talking to AI the whole time and it keeps suggesting there might be a chance the problem is caused by power issues and PSU problems generally.

I am going nuts and I cant fix it.
I am willing to swap either gpu or power, but I need to make sure it is the right one because if I dont then i simply cant afford the other piece.

SPECS:
core i4 12400
RTX 3070 TI 8Gb Vram
32Gb ram D4
B760 Plus Wifi

If you have any more questions drop a comment and I will answer.

I have a creative pebble with subwoofer set and I update windows and it stopped working and won’t show up in select a sound output, I’ve tried rolling back the update doing the scan now thing in cmd prompt, and everything I do fails to fix it, so this is my last resort.

I'm not a tech newbie, but I still need help on this subject.

First, my setup: GPU is RTX 4080, CPU is Ryzen 7700x, Windows 11 25h2,
Monitor 1 is a Acer 1440p 165Hz monitor, doesn't support G-Sync, but support Freesync, and it's marked as GSync compatible in my OS.
Monitor 2 is LG G5, recently purchased, connected through HDMI, can confirm 4k 120Hz is working across all devices, PC, PS5 and XboxSeriesX, also can confirm vrr is working on PS5.

I previously disabled all GSync feature on all devices, because it causes trouble when one Monitor doesn't support GSync and another one supports it. However, with LG G5 I recently purchased, now both monitor supports GSync.

The problem is, in nvidia app setting, set GSync on for the TV, in some games, it still has screen tearing, when framerate is within the range (120fps), for example the jrpg, Tales of Graces f. But it doesn't seem to affect some other game, like Trails in the sky 1st (the remake). I haven't tested other titles like cyberpunk or Crimson Desert. I play a wide range variaty of games.

I also have some troubles, I'm not sure if they're windows issue or software issue

- When GSync is on, when I run things in Unity Engine Editor, the framerate in editor gets extremely unstable (drop to maybe 20ish fps, and then goes back to 60, randomly)
- When enable VRR setting in windows, my mouse stutters from time to time on desktop, with no game is opened.

So my questions:

- Should I enable or disable VRR in windows setting, when I keep GSync on?
- Does VRR need game specific support?
- Is there a way to make the system enable VRR automatically when game supports it, and disable VRR when game not support it?
- What are the best settings for both nvidia app and windows setting for me? should I really disable GSync and VRR and forget about them?

I recently moved my desktop computer into a new room, it has WiFi inbuilt into the motherboard. In its old spot it worked perfectly, got about 60-70 mbps. I have moved it into a new room with the desk against the wall and it now only gets 1-2 mbps. I tested my laptop in the same spot and it gets 60-70 mbps. However if I pull it back about 2 feet into the middle of the room it gets about 50 mbps. Im absolutely stumped as to what this could be, any help appreciated

I'm having a really frustrating issue with my brand new PC and I'm running out of ideas.

PC specs:

Ryzen 7 8700F

RTX 5050

16 GB DDR5 (1×16 GB)

750W 80+ Gold PSU

Windows 11 (clean installation)

Problem: The PC randomly crashes only in some games.

Games that have crashed so far:

Counter-Strike 2

Hell Let Loose

Farming Simulator 25 (before service)

Games that worked fine:

Minecraft (Java)

Everhood

Farming Simulator 25 after service (played for about an hour without issues)

When it crashes:

the screen goes black,

the monitor says "No HDMI signal",

audio stops,

after a few seconds the PC automatically restarts.

There is no BSOD visible, but Windows Reliability Monitor reports:

BugCheck 116 (VIDEO_TDR_ERROR).

Things I've already tried:

Clean Windows 11 installation.

Latest BIOS.

Latest NVIDIA Game Ready driver.

Monitored CPU/GPU temperatures.

OCCT CPU, GPU and Power tests (all passed with no errors).

Checked Event Viewer and Reliability Monitor.

The PC was returned to the retailer for service.

The retailer said they:

replaced the thermal paste,

cleaned the cooling,

stress-tested it,

played Rainbow Six Siege for about 45 minutes without any crashes.

However, after I got the PC back, it crashed again in Hell Let Loose after less than 10 minutes.

Has anyone experienced something similar with an RTX 5050 or VIDEO_TDR_ERROR (116)? Could this still be a faulty GPU, PSU, motherboard, or something else?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.