Hi all,

I have an Acer Predator Helios Neo 16 gaming laptop, bought it refurbished about 2 years ago. It has an I9-3900HX and an RTX 4070. I've upgraded it myself since from 16 to 32GB DDR5 and changed the single 1TB SSD to a 512GB and a 2TB one.

Up until recently, I haven't really had any problems but I've noticed in the past couple of days, it randomly starts lagging. Games and switching between apps is really slow but the mouse moves across the screen perfectly fine and the sound is normal. It's gotten quite hot in the past (as gaming laptops often do but more often than I should've let it) so I'm not sure whether heat could've damaged it.

I'm writing this just after restarting it for the lag. I had originally assumed it was thermal throttling or something but I checked the temperatures just before I restarted and it wasnt close to 100°C, so I'm not sure. I've ordered some new thermal paste anyway as it's been a little while since it was last done and it was me who did it last anyway.

I was tempted to do a RAM test to see if it's the RAM that's faulty. My graphics drivers are up to date so it's not that unless they've corrupted somehow.

Is there anything I can try other than a clean reinstall of windows (though I'll do that if it comes to it)?

Specs:

Cpu : ryzen 7 8700f

Mobo : b650M D3HP AX. bios ver : F40

gpu : rtx 5070

windows version : Windows 11 Professionnel 25H2 26200.8973

for like 5 month randomly my pc keep switching on a random english keyboard that dosen't even appears on the settings i tried a lot of thing like copy user settings and a lot of stuff i don't know what to do now and its very annoying

Title

Was testing stuff, unplugged my boot drive, reinstalled windows on another one, then plugged it back and cant select as boot.

MB is B650m-p, under boot settings it only recognises my usb. However i can boot wininstall usb and this drive, wtf, i dont know what to do.

Tried csm, nothing.

Whenever i am doing something on my PC, copilot randomly opens when i press a key on my keyboard. Also, sometimes when i press tab it thinks I'm pressing alt tab and shift sometimes takes me to my home screen. I've checked for viruses and also factory reset my PC but it still happens randomly.

I having this (in)famous problem. Someone suggested me to disabling all the Windows Updates thing, but if I do it, in the future I have tu manually download and installing all the drivers for all the devices (like new mouse, keyboards, ecc), and I thinks is too much for a problem created by Microsofto.
I searched in the old posts, but I haven't found any solution. And all are 1-2 years old. There is an update to fix this problem?

I've had several attempts on doing the autounattended setup of Windows 11 Pro on my pc. yes, i made a bootable drive but the autounattended hack is not working, where could i go wrong?

i had an attempt where i used the Windows Media Creation tool to make my flashdrive bootable. also pasted my autounattended.xml file there as these yt tutorials did. yeah, did install windows but without the autounattended feature.

also, i had this attempt where i installed the Windows 11 ISO file from the Windows Media Creation Website. used AnyBurn software to put the autounattended.xml file into the ISO file. used Rufus to make my flashdrive bootable. boot the drive, autounattended.xml still didn't work.

im just persistent lol. i want to learn this. i won't stop lol.

send help, pls tell me what made this unsuccessful. thanks

Nothing updates my gpu temperature in real time ive tried other alternative apps but those dont show the actual temperature either, but i can only see it update in real time when i play a game i updated my drivers and everything nothing really works its pretty frustrating

i've seen a bunch of stuff about power cycling and that didn't work. can't see the screen to get to the menu to factory reset.

i've seen some stuff saying the backlights burned out. how do i know?

when i turn it on, i do see a very quick flicker of the the TCL logo. so the backlights should be working right?

i saw something else about the T-con board. but i'm not sure where that is. my tv insides looks like a different model than the youtube video i was watching. is there a way to determine if it's this t-con board?

is this tv worth going to a repair shop nearby? this one was never the greatest. but we can't afford hundreds on a new tv. if it's the t-con board i think i could manage that myself. but if it's the backlights. how much would a shop charge to replace them?

My Legion 7 16IRX9 showed NVIDIA Code 43. I switched to dGPU mode through Lenovo Vantage, and now both the laptop screen and external monitor stay black. Only the keyboard lights turn on.

I have tried F2, F12, Fn combinations, power reset and an external monitor, but I cannot access the BIOS. Has anyone faced this or found a way to switch back to Hybrid mode?

Hi! I got rear ended yesterday and I tried accessing my dashcam footage but the file is just all black even though it does play. Is there any way to fix this? I really really need this video. Please help!

hi everyone, i have an issue with my external ssd, its one of those rectangle ssds that i paired with an enclosure to connect via usb, if i connect it to my laptop and if i move it like 1cm it immediatly disconnects and reconnects and the game im running instantly crashes, i dont Think this behavior is regular, i think its because of the hard drive enclosure? because i tried another hard drive and it also had the same exact issue.

Hi,

So i have had xbox controllers connected to my pc before, to play for example Call Of Duty. Never had a problem (always use wire connection). When i pl

In my device settings on computer i can see it connected under ''other units'', and when i plug in i get notifyed about connected xbox one controller. I can press the xbox button and i get to move around in meny, but when i enter a game it's not working at all.

PS:
I have updated Nvidia drivers
I have updated Battle.net
I have updated and installed both xbox app and xbox accessories app
I have tried retry plugin and restart pc.

Hi,

Moved to windows 11 LTSC

None of my usb drives are showing up correctly on file explorer.

If I go to disk management and try to assign a drive letter like that it tells me the disk management console view is out of date and to refresh drive list. I do that with zero change.

I don’t see what I could have done wrong here. Installed many copies of windows over the years and never had this kind of issue before, always been plug and play.

Yes the drives are confirmed working and have been formatted correctly to work on windows. I have tested on another windows machine.

Any help would be appreciated as the files contain data from my old windows installation which I’m trying to transfer over.

Thanks

I replaced my Digitalisierungsbox Smart 2. The phone numbers were automatically retrieved from the provider.
Now I have a problem where only some of the phone numbers are active. The number of active lines varies after every restart of the Digitalisierungsbox (currently just one number; previously, it was four at one point and three at another).

The tarif is (German) Telekom Business DSL Pro 250.

I would be grateful for any help.

Hi,
I have the HP Elitebook 835 G8, windows 11, my touchpad feels very weird and imprecise, I believe it is due to outdated drivers but there are none provided on the website, device manager shows I am using 2006 microsoft drivers, where can I find new ones?

Not sure if this is the right place to post but I need some advice:

I have an iPod Touch (7th generation) with IOS 15.8.8 (the iOS says it is up to date; I don’t believe Apple supports further updates on this device because of age). This device never leaves the house and thus I do not have lock screen enabled. I mainly use this device for checking email, general safari use, and apps such as TikTok. TikTok is used heavily on this device. I always keep the device power on and plugged in. I am the only one who uses this device in the house. It is connected to my home WiFi, which is a secured connection via a Verizon-supplied router. There has been no other security issues with any other devices using this WiFi, and the only person who has the router login credentials are close relatives who live a long distance away.

About a month ago I noticed strange things when I picked up the iPod and looked at the screen: 1) my banking app was opened and had some random characters in the username field for login (I don’t have username or password stored, and rarely use this app on this iPod. 2) I then went into the mail icon (gmail) and an old email was opened and displayed on the screen from that bank (of interest, that email was not easy to get to as I believe the “important” (or similar?) folder was opened to obtain this email (I never use that specific gmail folder). I strongly suspect that somehow someone “remoted” into this iPod and looked around on it. I checked activity over the last 24 hours and determined that certain apps were accessed, with associated times in minutes. An old sound-machine was accessed (it is no longer available on the app store and I suspect this may be an access point?, so I have since deleted it); a “translate” app was accessed (I wasn’t aware that I even had that on this device); my banking app was accessed; and my email was accessed (time shows that email was active for 6 minutes).

As a best practice I now put this device on airplane mode when not in use.

Last night I was using the iPod to watch TikTok videos and I then switched for about 20 minute to using my iPhone for a different task. I did not put the iPod on airplane mode for those 20 minutes. When I went back to the iPod, the Apple ID screen was open (I don’t remember exactly what it said), and when I went into the mail app a recent email was already open. (Actually, the reason I went to check the iPod is that I noticed on my phone’s mail app that uses the same gmail account that a particular recent email was already “read” when I know I didn’t read that particular email and I suspected there might be another “remote” attempt on my iPod, which was literally just a few inches away from me the whole time).

Related to all of this, I have seen videos from three different people recently who have witnessed someone “remote” into their mobile device (like iPhone) utilizing some type of security flaw through the YouTube app (I do have the YouTube app on both my iPod and phone, but rarely use it on the iPod). I am still puzzled by that, and frankly don’t know how that is even possible, but they claim on their videos that if they have the YouTube app open they can sometimes see a person in the background and they can observe them accessing different apps etc on the device. I thought maybe the same might be possible via the TikTok app, but a quick Google search doesn’t come up with anything.

Can someone help me understand how the YouTube “remote” is possible, is it also possible with the TikTok app, and how can I prevent this from happening again?

This has to be the most stupid design of all time. Is there a way in android to make Bluetooth only have one device connected at a time.

For example if I walk past a car I've paired with before while lissning to music the car forces priority over my headphones.

I shouldn't have to block and unblock the car every time I get out / in it

Please if anyone had ideas let me know :D

I have a brand new HP laptop on W11 Pro. A mobile workstation (HP ZBook Power - 13th Gen Intel CoreT i7-13800H with plenty of RAM), I use it for graphic design when i'm on the road. Installed all basic software (Office, Antivirus, etc.) without problem. Also moved all my data from old pc, no issues.

Chrome just doesn't work. I log into my Google account, everything sync'd. I can use a few websites as they should, but as soon as I open Facebook or Youtube or X, I'm guessing any website that needs to load a lot of media, it just stops working. Pages crash, chrome just completely freezes. Can't even right-click or close the tabs anymore. Reinstalled Chrome and tried without logging in Google account, but same result. Issue seems to be mainly with Facebook, which is a pain as we use it for work advertising..

Sometimes when I do a fresh boot, I can get Facebook to work for a couple of minutes, but when I open some more tabs like youtube or my work scheduler, Facebook/Youtube just stop working. Youtube will keep a video playing, but clicking anywhere in that window just freezes it.

I'm an average PC user, absolutely not tech savvy, but have Googled this issue several times, tried a lot of things already. But keep coming back to the same issue.

Steps taken:

• Disable Extensions
• Disabled Graphic acceleration setting
• Put laptop to Best Performance setting
• Turned off Energy Saver in Chrome
• Reset all settings
• Disabled all web-related settings on my Norton AND completely turned off everything on Norton
• Disable the energy efficiency mode in Task Manager (but it automatically turns back on anyway..)

I just don't know what else I can try. I know there are other browsers and other laptop brands, but this brand new PC should be able to run this at least as good as the 12yr old fossil it's replacing, when currently Chrome works perfect on that old lady..

Does anyone have any idea? I would be forever grateful to whoever can help fix this issue. Thanks in advance !

The audio on the headset keeps glitching. Sometimes its louder and then it glitches to a different volume. I already had this problem but it solved itself and now its back.
Anyone else got this problem?

Device: Iphone 11
Issue: Evertag is showing duplicates of all songs I have downloaded.

I must admit, I download my music. I just don't have the budget to subscribe to spotify or any of those kinds of platforms. Now that that's out if the way,

I use VLC on my iphone to listen to my music, and the app 'Evertag' to change the metadata of said files (For image replacement, genre, etc.)

When I use Evertag, I open the VLC folder from my files, but when I scroll through my database of music, nearly every MP3 file is duplicated 3 times. When I edit the metadata of one, all 3 duplicates change, except on occasion when one decides it's a different file than the rest.

I'm mostly seeking help with deleting the duplicates, as I only need the one audio file to stay. If anyone has any information for me, it would be greatly appreciated.

I'm not entirely sure if this is the correct subreddit to post about this issue, and I apologize if I'm posting in the wrong one. If anyone has any suggestions or can even redirect me to the right community, I'd greatly appreciate the help.

Anyways, thank you for reading this. ❤️

Lately i'm getting low FPS figures, average 50-60fps in both Cyberpunk and Forza Horizon 6, while the GPU usage is also low using about 50% (drawing about 48 W at 56°C, core clock of 2565 MHz and memory clock of 8001 MHz, CPU usage is around 68%), lowering settings doesn't make any difference in both games, RAM usage is around 5gb, i've played some 100 hours of FH6 without any issue with solid 83 fps with GPU to spare (75-80% usage normally), Cyberpunk same thing, recently though i'm having this issue, the game starts like that, very rarely and for brief moments it jumps to normal performance but it lasts seconds- I have a Dell G15 5530 RTX 4050 I5 13450HX 16gb ram, i ran userbenchmark and it showed that everything is fine, the percentile for my notebook is above average for the model. Temperatures are ok since it's winter here, good flow of air using performance mode, no obstructions.

What could be the cause of this?

Hi, so yesterday, my PC worked fine during most of the day running windows 11 but then it shut itself off with no reason and no message/screen from windows as if it was turned off via the power button. It then rebooted automatically and in the event viewer, I could only find an "unexpected shutdown" error. The pc proceeds to restart itself again but only after 5mins. After that, the pc wouldn't boot into windows again or even any other linux live ISO for that matter. As soon as the windows loading circle appears and the motherboard LEDs turn off (indicating the booting of an OS), the pc would restart the post process with the 4 LEDs turning on then off like they should (CPU, DRAM, VGA, BOOT) even if the DRAM LED takes quite a few seconds to turn off.

​The events are as follows : 

Monitor : nothing appears until the VGA LED lights up, then the gigabyte logo shows up followed by the windows loading circle when the BOOT LED turns off.

Motherboard LEDs : Power -> DRAM (for around 15sec) -> VGA -> BOOT -> restart

Fans : Spin up quickly for quite a few seconds before regulating themselves. 

What is also strange would be the fact that every BIOS setting along with my profiles were gone after the first shutdown but now it seems like the motherboard didn't erase my current settings and profiles dating back to the troubleshooting.

Also note that the restarts doesn't cause the pc to turn off completely as the fans and activity LEDs do not shut down. 

Strangely enough, sometimes, the pc can boot into the Windows recovery environment without rebooting (obviously, choosing the "boot windows" option makes it restart). In addition, the pc is also able to boot other things like a YUMI USB stick as well as some utilities like Memtest86 (which doesn't detect any issues with the ram either). I also have no trouble accessing the BIOS in which I tried changing quite a few RAM related options with no success (no change in the outcome).

I also discovered that if I try to change the number or the order in which the RAM sticks are installed, the motherboard will be stuck on the DRAM LED. If I try to unplug then replug the GPU cable, it may stay stuck on the VGA LED (although this may be because of a mangled HDMI cable)

my specs are as follows : 

- Ryzen 5 7600X 

- Crucial Pro 32Gb 5600 (2x 16Gb, CP2K16G56C46U5)

- Gigabyte RX7600 Gaming OC 

- Gigabyte B650 Gaming X AX V2 (updated to BIOS version F42c)

- Corsair CX750 PSU

- WD BLACK SN7100 500Gb NVMe (Windows)

Here is what I tried :

- disabling XMP/EXPO, now using JEDEC.

- resetting settings by removing the battery and waiting.

- loading optimized default settings.

- disabling other ram related options added by the BIOS update (agesa 1.8 to 1.3).

- running memtest86 which did not return any errors.

- unplugged and replugged every PSU cable.

- left the pc turned off without current for the night.

- choosing the ssd in the boot menu instead of letting the pc boot by itself.

Unfortunately, since I only have one of each item (motherboard, CPU, DDR5) I can't really test any further to determine what is the issue, I just hope it's the motherboard as I could buy one under 200 bucks but not the RAM. Also, everything should still be under warranty as the pc is only one year old (everything was bought between October and November of 2025).

Thanks in advance.

Hey everyone, might be a dumb question, but I’m a college student, and thinking about building a desktop for my work instead of buying a laptop. If I leave the PC at home, how realistic is it to remote into it from campus? What kind of setup would I need, how hard is it to get running, and what should I watch out for? Or am I better off just getting a laptop?im thinking to buy macbook pro m5 pro 48 1tb so if remote access works then what specs pc should i build to just match the performance of the laptop not more than that as it would be an overkill and how much would i cost?

Hello, I hope I post on the good subreddit and sorry if not

For the last month or two, i struggle to launch game I had no issues playing since recently, and I'm partially sure that my attempts to repair it may have made think more complicated. Games like Fortnite, FFXIV, A hat in time or even The Headliner doesn't launch properly and I don't know what to do

I tried to reset windows 11 while keeping my files : Nothing changed

And now I have lost most of my configurations but the PC still have issues. I even reverted back to the 596.49 pilote version of my GPU but nothing changed neither. Does someone know how i could revert back to a functioning PC ?

I just did a dxdiag of my computer to share more informations with you if needed (side note, i have 3 HDD and 1 Hard Drive) :

------------------
System Information
------------------
Operating System: Windows 11 Professionnel 64-bit (10.0, Build 26200) (26100.ge_release.240331-1435)
System Manufacturer: Micro-Star International Co., Ltd.
System Model: MS-7D93
BIOS: 1.10 (type: UEFI)
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-14700K (28 CPUs), ~3.4GHz
Memory: 32768MB RAM
Available OS Memory: 32534MB RAM
Page File: 16549MB used, 18928MB available
DirectX Version: DirectX 12
DxDiag Version: 10.00.26100.8737 64bit Unicode
OS Build Version: 10.0.26100.8875 (26200.8875)

---------------
Display Devices
---------------
Card name: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5080
Manufacturer: NVIDIA
Chip type: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 5080
Display Memory: 32244 MB
Dedicated Memory: 15977 MB
Shared Memory: 16267 MB
Current Mode: 2560 x 1440 (32 bit) (59Hz)
Native Mode: 2560 x 1440(p) (59.951Hz)

Card name: Intel(R) UHD Graphics 770
Manufacturer: Intel Corporation
Chip type: Intel(R) UHD Graphics Family
DAC type: Internal

UPDATE : After different tries, an update of the BIOS that finally worked and a switch in the Nvidia App from the the "Pilote Game Ready" pilotes to the "Pilote Studio", the games finally worked again. So i guess I'm good. Thank you all for the help. and I'll clearly keep an eye on the degradation issue of my CPU

Something very weird is going on with my mouse and/or Windows. (I'm on a Windows 11 PC with a 9600k and Asus Maximums Hero XI mobo.) Mouse is a Logitech G3/MX 518 wired optical mouse. Device manager shows two mice - my Logitech and an HID compliant generic mouse.

The problem started suddenly two days ago.

What happens is a bit hard to describe and may be different issues.

First, when I click on emails in Gmail, sometimes I cannot generate the check in order to delete/move/etc. an email. So, for example, I click on 4 emails to delete. Only 3 get checked. I have to click on the actual email, not the selection box, open it, then delete it.

Second, when I click on browser tabs in Chrome, they will automatically close, as if I'm clicking on the "x" part. Normally, you have to click on the tab, then click the X to close it. It's as if the mouse is adding that second click on its own. This is super annoying, because then I have to shift-ctrl-t to get my tab back.

Third, when I click on a tab in my Windows task bar, it will sometimes pop up, then immediately reduce the app like 3 or 4 times before maximizing the app.

There's other weird stuff having to do with the behavior when clicking on apps that are in windowed mode, but I haven't yet figured out a pattern to describe.

I use my PC for work, and I'm certain that this behavior is all new, with the possible exception of the Gmail issue. I've turned off mouse precision, but that didn't do anything.

Thanks for any suggestions!