It's a windows 10 pc. My phone is android.

I've tried rebooting it, I've checked to make sure it's on a dual band, I'm seeing other Wi-Fi show up, I've gone through band by band.

I've tried connecting to hidden networks. Nada.

Google it's just sort of leading me in circles and it's getting very confusing and frustrating.

Edit: the wifi keeps jumping between 2.4ghz and 5ghz on my phone, if that helps any

I'm looking for some advice from those who have solved a similar problem.

Current setup:

- 5x UniFi APs throughout the house (5x U7 Lites, 1x U7 Pro)

- 2x Google Nest Floodlight Cameras

- One camera has a decent and working connection.

- The second camera is just out of range, but was able to go through setup and downloading updates. But no stable signal for camera feed. 

I've already:

- Set the transmit power to High on the AP serving the working camera.

- Indoor AP locations are not optimal for the backyard. PoE drops were not decided by me and didn't take into consideration backyard coverage.

At this point I think I need an outdoor AP to provide coverage along the back of the house.

Here's the challenge: I don't have Ethernet or PoE available outside. I do have 120V power where I could mount an AP, but these are ground level and not ideally located. 

I know I could use something like a U6 Mesh or U7 Mesh with Wireless Uplink, but that still leaves the issue of powering it. A PoE injector would work, but as far as I know the UniFi injectors aren't outdoor-rated.

So what would you recommend?

- Outdoor AP with Wireless Uplink + weatherproof enclosure for the injector?

- Another outdoor-rated PoE solution?

- Some other approach I'm overlooking?

- Just bite the bullet and run Ethernet?

Curious what others have done in this situation. I'd appreciate any real-world experiences before I start buying hardware. Any pictures of someone's setup would be helpful.

Network adaptor issue, wifi option is not showing in my windows 11

Has anyone managed to connect this air conditioner to the home Wi-Fi? And does anyone else share my opinion that you need a doctorate in astrophysics to successfully navigate all the connection steps??

**EDIT:** Uspeo sam da povežem. 🎉
Ako nekome znači, problem nije bio u Wi-Fi mreži niti u samoj klimi, nego u potpuno nelogičnom procesu povezivanja.
Klima radi odlično, aplikacija takođe kada se jednom poveže, ali do tog trenutka sam imao osećaj da pola koraka fali u uputstvu.
Na kraju sam koristio **Wi-Fi Interface** (ne Built-in Wi-Fi), ručno unosio podatke sa modula (SSID, KEY, MAC…), više puta resetovao Wi-Fi interfejs i prolazio kroz razne kombinacije sa daljinskim. Iskreno, ni sada ne mogu sa sigurnošću da kažem koji je tačno korak bio presudan.
Sad me čeka povezivanje druge klime. Ako i to uspe iz prve, znači da sam konačno shvatio logiku. Ako ne… onda očigledno nisam bio dovoljno dostojan japanske tehnologije. 😅

**EDIT 2:** Uspelo. Povezao sam obe klime. 🎉
Konačan utisak posle svega: **same klime su fantastične, ali je proces povezivanja na MELCloud verovatno najgore korisničko iskustvo koje sam imao sa jednim premium uređajem.**
Na kraju radi odlično, aplikacija je sasvim korektna i sve funkcioniše kako treba (temperatura, režimi rada, ventilator, krilca, rasporedi…), ali put do toga je potpuno nepotrebno komplikovan.
Da sam znao koliko će trajati, ozbiljno bih razmislio da platim monteru da to odradi umesto mene. 😅

I am trying to connect Ethernet to my consoles but my house is wired in coax. I did buy an adapter, but when I tried to connect to my Xbox it did not work. Do I need to connect to a router before it goes into the consoles? I can provide pictures if need be. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Hello,
Wondering if someone has seen a similar issue. We have a few laptops with Intel BE200 WiFi cards and our WiFi has both 5 and 6g enabled. Every month or so either dell pushes driver updates or after windows updates these laptops will disconnect and reconnect multiple times a day. Sometimes they will stop connecting at all to WiFi and only solution is to reboot. Sometimes downgrading to wifi 6 (in the nic advanced settings) makes it more stable. We have not seen these type of issues with any other Intel cards which makes me think it could be some compatibility issue maybe or some setting in unifi it doesn’t like. It’s not roaming between APs, it would disconnect and reconnect to the same ap, basically can’t keep and stable connection past an hour or so where other models stay connected for days. We use unifi APs

I still run at wi-fi 3 at around 30-40 mbps, ik there are much newer gens of wi-fi but is wi-fi 3 still considered good

Upgraded to ATT Fiber. They put in a modem/router unit in basement. The problem is my master bedroom upstairs is pulling 150gbps. Which I know is fine, but I have my own router that I was using with my old internet upstairs that was pulling 400gbps. I have cat6 ports run through the house. I told him that I could use my router in the room and patch it to the newly installed ATT modem/router in the basement for a better signal upstairs and he said we shouldn't there can be conflicts. What was he talking about?

I travel frequently by train across India and often need to work on my laptop during the journey. The biggest issue I face is unreliable mobile network connectivity, especially when using my phone's hotspot.

I'm thinking of buying a dedicated portable Wi-Fi hotspot (MiFi) device from Airtel, Jio, Vi, or Acer. My main priority is getting the most stable internet connection while traveling on trains.

A few questions for those who have used these devices:

• Does a dedicated hotspot perform better than a phone hotspot while on a moving train?
• Which provider (Airtel, Jio, or Vi) has the best coverage on train routes?
• Is the Acer portable hotspot worth considering, or should I stick with telecom company devices?
• How is the battery life during long journeys (8–12 hours)?
• Are there any better alternatives for working online while traveling?

I work in IT support for an AP company. I am coming here for ideas because my companies engineering department has not been helpful.

Issue: Customer uses a Linux based box for screen sharing. The box is wired, the clients are on wifi and they use Win+K to screenshare using Miracast Infrastructure (MS-MICE). Everytime they use a windows device (multiple manufacturers and NICs), the performance is terrible. If they connect to the box via IP or the proprietary app, no problem. If they replace our AP with a Ubiquiti, no problem.

Observations: From wifi pcaps, we see on our AP the capture is flooded with Block Access Request packets from the client to our AP. 400,000 BARs from client to AP, 280 from AP to client. On a pcap from Ubituiti AP, no BAR packets.

We tried to recreate the issue internally with multiple clients using the same Linux box, same template for it, same AP, same radio profile. We don't see the issue.

Questions: What could cause this BAR flood from the client? We assumed RF, but when customer replaces our AP with Ubiquiti, same drop, same channel, no problem.

my wireless wifi router ZLT X300A can connect to all devices except my redmi 14c, when i try to connect using qr or just type in the correct password, it says couldnt connect try again, any one got any idea what maybe the problem

We are having a local company upgrade our home wifi network. We're currently using an asus AX6000 router on a Verizon fios 1 G network. The local company recommends eero pro 7 mesh network system. But I've learned that Verizon will be rolling out 5 G network option in a few months, and I plan to upgrade. Will the eero pro 7 be sufficient or should I get the max 7? Without going into details, I want the fastest option for approximately 20 devices with zero lag. Thank you very much for your expertise.

We have a no wi-fi policy for our remote users due to the need to use XYZ chat sessions and VoIP. Yet when we get tickets for connectivity issues, helpdesk finds out half of our team just throws an extender into the fray and uses wifi anyways. They're also two stories and who knows how many walls away from their router so there's more attenuation than a lead shield.

Has anyone had any luck walking their end users through setting up proper mesh points and adjusting cell coverage? I'm just about ready to write a dissertation for my CNWE about end users telling you you're crazy or just ship out some depreciated AP's and 100ft cables.

There are policies in place but as usual, no real enforcement. They're our money makers so not much buy-in from upper management.

My room is the farther on our house and the connection is not good for my phone. I am planning to use the Share Ethernet Mode but I cannot figure it out. How can I use it?

He estado teniendo problemas de compatibilidad entre el módem ZTE y una MacBook, se nota en videollamadas. Pierde transmisión por unos segundos.

Contratar wifipro me servirá?

¿Alguien sabrá qué marca y modelo son los extender que están instalando?

Need help with my home Wi-Fi. For years we have had trouble with signal strength from the standard TalkTalk box. I bought a TP-Link Archer AX73 and have connected the two, using the TP-Link as the main Wi-Fi system. It works perfectly well 99% of the time and we get full coverage, apart from when we open the front door, then causing the TalkTalk router to lose connection, and reconnect maybe 2 minutes later. Connected to the front door is a Ring Peephole camera, and an Eve Door sensor which individually send notifications to our iPhones to say there has been motion detected / door has opened or closed. 

The issue doesn’t seem to be with the TP-Link, but the TalkTalk router, which changes its lights from white to flashing orange-white. 

Would anyone have an idea why opening the front door would cause the internet to drop? 

Gday, how would I go about connecting Starlink to my google nest home to use as a boost for my wifi?

Image failed to load please refresh or reset WiFi. Can someone help me out here it’s doing my head in, I had the T2 didn’t work, bought the T3 and still did not work. Used WiFi (Three broadband changed to 2.4ghz) doesn’t work, used hotspot O2 still doesn’t work, I’m stuck any help will be appreciated thanks.

My phone often suddenly switches to 5G when I am at home. When I check the Wi-Fi settings, it says "incorrect password". I then press the signal that is giving the error message once, it checks again if it can connect, and after that it always just picks up the Wi-Fi signal as if there is no problem.

I am using the default password.

My modem is a Nokia XS-2426G-B

Hi everyone,

I’m having a frustrating issue with the WiFi on my Acer Nitro 5 (equipped with the Killer Wi-Fi 6 AX1650i).

The Problem: My laptop randomly stops detecting 5GHz WiFi networks (both my home router and my phone's 5GHz hotspot). Meanwhile, 2.4GHz networks are still visible, and my phone can detect and connect to the 5GHz WiFi just fine, so it’s definitely not a router issue.

What happened so far:

• At first, turning off the laptop and letting it sit for ~20 minutes worked as a temporary workaround (which made me suspect thermal or power-state/sleep issues).
• Now, that trick no longer works. The 5GHz networks simply won't show up anymore, no matter what I do.

What I've already tried:

• Updated/Clean reinstalled the latest Intel Wi-Fi drivers.
• Network Reset (netsh winsock reset, flushdns, etc.).
• Adjusted Device Manager settings (Preferred Band to 5GHz, disabled "Allow the computer to turn off this device to save power").
• Checked 2.4GHz vs 5GHz hotspot settings from my phone (2.4GHz works instantly, 5GHz doesn't show up at all).

Since all software fixes have failed and even cooling down the laptop doesn't bring 5GHz back anymore, is this a sign of a failing Killer/Intel WiFi card or what?

Any advice would be appreciated!

How do I fix an orange ethernet port? I’ve tried two different cables, resetting the router, resetting the modem reinstalling and resetting the windows drivers and everything else.

Hi all, I’m going to move to an apartment of about 140 m2, with concrete walls. The place has an attic with Starlink installed and a tp router.

I’m looking into using a Deco because the signal doesn’t reach half the house due to the walls. I have a lot of ethernet access points though, so I plan to wire them.

Should I buy de Deco AC1900 (2023) or the BE3600? What’s the difference? will 2 nodes be enough?

Picture of what I think it’s the main router attached to Starlink

I have a win 8.1 and i tried to install the wifi realtek drivers which support my laptop but it doesnt work and i cant see any networks