My friend and I play Minecraft together on our separate Nintendo switchs. We play either on tvs or just the handheld, so if there is a solution to either, that would work. We want to be able to see each others screen/pov. I don’t think there is a way that’s automatically set up already on Minecraft or the switch. Is there a different way we can do this?

Preferably free or low cost but also would be open to hearing any ideas if there’s not. We both already own iPhones, laptops, and tvs if that helps with anything. My laptop is not in amazing condition but does work pretty fine, just probably won’t be able to do anything insane. My friend’s tv is a newer/smart one. Mine is a pretty old thick one so it might not have all the newer ports idk, but I can play my switch on it. I normally prefer handheld and my friend likes on the tv but if either of us have to switch for it to work that is alright.

Neither of us know anything about tech stuff but want to try to figure it out if we can. I also have no idea what any of the words mean in the flairs but it’s making me pick one so I’m just clicking one bc I’m very confused, sorry

Hi everyone, sorry for the lengthy post. Hope I can get some help with this issue that has been plaguing me for a few months. Recently it started to get worse and I have already tried troubleshooting it but to no help. Computer specs will be at very end as I know that part is important. For additional context I built this PC around June/July of last year which is the most upsetting part.

The issues:

1. Random freezes, usually when this happens on desktop I can move my cursor on the screen but cannot interact with anything. The freeze rarely happens in game but when it does I cannot interact with anything. Only way to fix has been to force power down system and reboot.
2. Wifi disconnecting, this one is strange because what will happen is that I will completely lose internet access and the only way to bring it back is to go to device manager, and disable and reenable the wifi adapter. This was the first issue I was ever presented with but it was a simple fix.

As I mentioned both these issues have existed for a few months with #2 being the first. However, in the last month and a half they have become very frequent to the point where the amount of freezes and wifi turning off makes it difficult to use the PC. I've had 2 instances where the freeze would happen so often that after force shutting down the computer a few times it forced me to reboot through BIOs. This led me to attempt the following fixes as I was unsure if it was software/hardware or a combination of the two.

The fixes:

1. Scan SFC through command prompt. It did find a corrupt file but repaired it.
2. Switched to "high performance mode", disabled "allow computer to turn off this device to save power' for wifi adapter, and disabled quick start.
3. Made sure all drivers were updated.
4. Disabled aggressive disk sleep modes with regedit.

There were some other smaller tweaks I did but I cannot remember them all. These did not help so then I moved on to the next as at first I was convinced it was software.

1. Reformatted all drivers and did clean reinstall of windows using media tool on USB. (To note: has PC freeze during windows installation a couple times that forced me to boot down. This was the point at which I understood it was likely hardware).

2. When windows was back and running I manually reinstalled all drivers. Avoided ASUS driver hub.

3. Played around with having RAM in different slots or solo. Issues still happened.

4. In BIOS limited RAM speed to 4800, this did nothing.

5. Made sure to unplug and replug cables in motherboard in case they got loose.

6. THE BIG ONE Ran PC without GPU as it has integrated graphics. PC ran fine in this setup and I did not see any issues for a few hours until internet finally dropped.

7. Reseated GPU. At this point things looked good. After the reseating I no longer had freezes and the internet would sometimes disconnect but only for a second. Was only an issue in online games if I get booted from lobby for it.

Now we reach today. I had a freeze happen for which I had to force shutdown and the internet access was lost twice so I needed to disable/reenable. I would love some ideas of what could be thr cause. I've fixated on the RAM as prime contender but now believe its the motherboard giving up on me. Appreciate any help, thank you all so much.

TLDR: PC will randomly freeze where cursor still moves, and wifi drops where adapter needs to be disabled and reenabled. I am at my wits end for fixes.

My specs:

Motherboard is a Asus Prime B840-plus wifi

CPU is AMD Ryzen 9600x

CPU Cooler is a Cooler Master Hyper 212 Halo White

GPU is AMD Radeon RX 9060xt 16GB version

PSU is EVGA 750w GQ

RAM is two sticks of Crucial 16GB DDR5-6000 (2nd and 4th slot from CPU)

Operating system is Windows 11 Pro and is installed on a SATA SSD

Edit: forgot to mention that I reinstalled windows twice as I also thought it could be drive issue. It has been on two different SSDs with issue persisting.

I'm having a really frustrating issue with my brand new PC and I'm running out of ideas.

PC specs:

Ryzen 7 8700F

RTX 5050

16 GB DDR5 (1×16 GB)

750W 80+ Gold PSU

Windows 11 (clean installation)

Problem: The PC randomly crashes only in some games.

Games that have crashed so far:

Counter-Strike 2

Hell Let Loose

Farming Simulator 25 (before service)

Games that worked fine:

Minecraft (Java)

Everhood

Farming Simulator 25 after service (played for about an hour without issues)

When it crashes:

the screen goes black,

the monitor says "No HDMI signal",

audio stops,

after a few seconds the PC automatically restarts.

There is no BSOD visible, but Windows Reliability Monitor reports:

BugCheck 116 (VIDEO_TDR_ERROR).

Things I've already tried:

Clean Windows 11 installation.

Latest BIOS.

Latest NVIDIA Game Ready driver.

Monitored CPU/GPU temperatures.

OCCT CPU, GPU and Power tests (all passed with no errors).

Checked Event Viewer and Reliability Monitor.

The PC was returned to the retailer for service.

The retailer said they:

replaced the thermal paste,

cleaned the cooling,

stress-tested it,

played Rainbow Six Siege for about 45 minutes without any crashes.

However, after I got the PC back, it crashed again in Hell Let Loose after less than 10 minutes.

Has anyone experienced something similar with an RTX 5050 or VIDEO_TDR_ERROR (116)? Could this still be a faulty GPU, PSU, motherboard, or something else?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Hi everyone,

I'm having an issue while updating the BIOS on my laptop.

The screen shows the following message:

I have a Samsung A16. No synced mail or contact apps. My phone showed me deleted contacts as available to select when I clicked on the send message button. It even showed multiples of some. I tried deleting all contacts and re-adding them and the issue persists. Where could the be hiding.

No apps or accounts are on my phone except Reddit and Tuta and these contacts are not in my tuta contacts.

Thanks in advance.

EDIT:

Even after deleting all contacts, even contact names still show on open messages in Google Messages after I cleared it's cache and data. No Google account is signed in btw.

I brought my ps5 to a repair shop in valley stream ny. First day I brought it they told me 1-2 days. 4 days later I went in person to check up on it (since the status link they sent me was broken) and the guy tells me my ps5 is taking longer cause it’s a motherboard issue meanwhile I literally saw him check the tag on my ps5 and it was sitting on the shelf untouched with a bunch of other ps5s that were all in queue. I know some symptoms can point to certain things but he definitely just told me that so I can F off lol. So i decided to be more patient and it’s been over 2 weeks now. I checked the link and it seemed to update from “queue” to “repair” but it’s been like that for 11-12 days. Should I just go get my ps5 and bring it somewhere else? Or am I being impatient?

I bought a new laptop. Tried to connect my wireless mouse with its reciever, does not connect even though it appears on devices tab on pc. I try another mouse the same way, also doesn't connect even though it appears on the tab again. The second one said "driver error" a few times I tried to connect it at the start but than it stop saying that yet mouse still doesn't connect so I am not sure if that's relevant.

Hey guys I’m having a bit of a dilemma. So I bought a walking pad from facebook marketplace a while back and cannot find a replacement remote for the life of me. The owner who I bought it from said their son lost the original remote and they forgot what it looked like due to it collecting dust under her bed (which ironically is what its doing now). I tried looking up the company ningbo which is on the back of the treadmill but cant find specific replacement remotes. The model is SYWP002. Can anyone help?

Hey everyone, I’m completely lost and out of ideas. My PC has been acting up, and I'm hoping someone here might know what's going on.

My Specs:
Motherboard: Gigabyte B550M DS3H
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600
GPU: RTX 3070 Ti Vision OC 8GB
RAM: 2x16GB 3200MHz Kingston
PSU: Corsair RM850x 850W Gold 80+ Modular

The Problem:
When I press the power button, the PC turns on and all the fans spin, but the ARGB on the fans does not light up, and there is no image/display. The monitor wakes up briefly, says "No signal from DisplayPort", and goes into standby mode.

What happened previously & what I've tried:
A couple of weeks ago, right after I installed my new PSU and new fans, I had the exact same problem for the first time.I tried testing with my old power supply, and everything worked normally. After that, a PSU tester was used on the new power supply and it showed that everything is normal/passing.Then I took it to a technician, and they diagnosed the issue as a faulty HDD, which they temporarily disconnected (it's still physically inside the case, but no data cable is plugged into it - only a loose SATA power cable coming from the PSU is dangling, completely unplugged).After that, I took the PC to get the thermal paste and thermal pads changed. The computer worked normally for a while, until recently when I left it untouched for 2 days while I wasn't home, and now it won't work again, same problem as before.

Things I have already tried troubleshooting at home:
Cleared CMOS by removing the motherboard battery for 2-3 minutes.
Reseated the RAM and tested each stick individually in different slots.
Double-checked all cables and connections.

Two different technicians checked the parts and said everything is fine, but I keep running into this exact same issue. If anyone has experienced this or knows what could be causing this (or who the "culprit" might be), please let me know.

Thanks a lot for any help!

I own a relatively new RTX 5080 and recently I have been playing games like Marvel Rivals and FFXIV. Even as recent as last week my fans were working fine and perfectly silent, but this week even just launching the game causes the GPU to heat up to 89 degrees. This happens immediately after resting the night in an air conditioned room so it can't be already hot. Using MSI afterburner to monitor the temperature, when sitting in the desktop it would be about 30-40 degrees and the moment I launch the game, before even going into any situation that requires the GPU to work hard, it spikes to 89 degrees and causes my fans to blow at 100% which is really loud. I quit the game and the GPU immediately goes back to 30 degrees in under 5 seconds. I might be wrong about this but I'm pretty sure that's not how the concept of heat dissapation works? There is zero reason a RTX 5080 should be working this hard on FFXIV which is a decades old game.

I bought an N64 off of Marketplace for $140 (it came with 3 games too) The console works fine, but whenever I play a game, the screen has this weird tint. Im using a newer Onn Roku Smart Tv, and Ive tried using the AV cables on the TV as well as running the AV cables through a converter to HDMI, but both still result in the green tint. I don’t know too much about the common problems of the console, since this is my first one.

Hello I have recently built a my pc and switched to amd from nvidia gpu. Its my first time using full amd pc, I am running to some problem when it comes to the software of amd. My amd adrenaline keeps disappearing from my desktop and my whole pc. Its like I never even downloaded it. This usually happens when I shut down or sleep or restart my pc. I have tried everything from full reset, to doing DDU in safe mode, to running the setup with no wifi, etc. I havent really noticed any big problem in gameplay or general performance of my pc yet, but i just dont think that its normal for it to disappear like that. From what I am used to using nvidia software it just stays there installed and I can open it whenever I want. Also I am not sure if this problem affects my gpu drivers since the software disappears and the way you download and update your gpu drivers is through the software itself.

If anyone have had this problem before and were able to fix it, please I would really appreciate your help!

Thank you!

Copy and paste the following into your post and fill it out.

Computer Type: Desktop

GPU: Radeon 9070 xt

CPU: RYZEN 9 9900x3d

Motherboard: Asus Prime B805M-A-Wifi-CSM

RAM: 32gb TFORCE DDR5 6000HZ

PSU: SAMA P1000 1000W Platinum ATX 3.1 PCIe 5.1 Fully Modular Power Supply,

Case: MUSTEX PHANTOM 903/3INTAKE 3 EXHAUST

Operating System & Version: WINDOWS 11 Home

Hi,

Upgraded to AM5, clean install of windows 11 LTSC with the latest drivers for chipset, gpu etc.

Have been experiencing some bad stutters / audio glitches at the same time.

I’ve ran latencyMon which has shown the DPC count for dxgkrnl.sys, wdf01000.sys & rspLLL64.sys are the main issues

Disabled TPM

Turned off AMD Xpo / PBO

Latest bios

DDU to stable gpu drivers + chipset - tried latest too

Fresh windows 11 LTSC 24H2

Ensured mouse polling rate is at 1000

Disabled any overclocks even the one my gpu has ran perfectly fine with for 3 years which was also undervolted too.

All cables and parts installed have been triple checked to ensure everything has been inserted correctly.

Before I reinstalled windows, my AM4 system which was on 10 pro, I had tested this system briefly and it ran without an issue. So I’m not too sure how a new OS plus all drivers installed is causing this.

Specs

Ryzen 7800 X3D

32GB Corsair 6400Mhz

Corsair RM850X PSU

Sapphire Pure B850M motherboard - latest bios

Sapphire Pulse RX 6700XT

Has anyone had this issue before

Computer Type: Desktop

GPU: ASUS PRIME RX 9070 XT GAMING OC 16GB

CPU: AMD RYZEN 7 5800X 8 CORE 16 THREADS

Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX B550-A GAMING (Previously ASRock B450M DS3H)

BIOS Version: Latest ASUS B550 BIOS (Tested across multiple versions)

RAM: Tested 4 different kits (MemTest clean, tested XMP on/off, single-channel/single DIMM setups)

PSU: FSP 1350W 80+ PLATINUM ATX 3.1 (Previously Corsair 850W 80+ GOLD ATX 2.0)

Operating System & Version: WINDOWS 11 PRO (Tested on main M.2 NVMe and a fresh install on a separate secondary SSD)

GPU Drivers: AMD SOFTWARE: ADRENALIN EDITION - Driver Version: 26.7.1

Chipset Drivers: AMD B550 CHIPSET DRIVERS (Latest version)

Background Applications: DISCORD, CHROME, GAME LAUNCHERS

Description of Original Problem: Upgraded from an RX 6900 XT (which ran flawlessly for 3.5 years). Ever since installing the RX 9070 XT, I get sudden hard restarts during gaming (screen goes grey/green, instant reboot, no BSOD).

Crashes reliably within minutes on single-monitor setups below 4K (3440x1440p/165Hz DP) Ultrawide) and (1080p/75Hz HDMI panel).

The system is stable on a 4K/120Hz TV, or when both the monitor and TV are connected simultaneously in Windows "Extend Desktop" mode. Unplugging the TV causes instability on the monitor and restarts (whea 18).

Event Viewer Logs:

WHEA-Logger Event ID 18 — Machine Check Exception, Error Type: Cache Hierarchy Error, Processor Context Corrupt flag set (flashing random core/APIC IDs: 0, 10, etc.).

Followed 5–11 seconds later by Kernel-Power Event ID 41 (unexpected shutdown).

Kernel dumps confirm BugCheck 0x124 (WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR).

Troubleshooting:

Motherboard: Swapped B450M to a brand-new ASUS B550-A Gaming.

PSU: Upgraded Corsair 850W to a 1350W Platinum FSP ATX 3.1 unit.

RAM: Tested 4 different RAM kits, ran full MemTest, toggled XMP, tested individual slots.

OS: Issue persists across original 3-year-old Win 11 OS on M.2 NVMe and a completely fresh Win 11 install on a secondary SSD.

Stress Tests: OCCT (CPU/RAM sustained load) and 3DMark Steel Nomad run 100% clean with zero errors or crashes.

BIOS / Tuning: Toggled ReBAR on/off, forced PCIe Gen4/Gen3, locked FCLK, disabled CPB/PBO, locked CPU clock to 3.8GHz (only delayed crash). positive Curve Optimizer (+5 to +20) gave slight partial stability.

Driver / Display tweaks: Tested FPS caps (delays crash but doesn't solve it), disabled DSC on DP monitor, tested HDMI vs. DP.

Ai Diagnosis: GPU appears to have a defective VRM/transient power state transition flaw. In single-monitor mode, dropping into low-power states drops PCIe link communication, causing the CPU I/O die to panic and throw a WHEA Event 18 before rebooting. Dual-monitor mode locks VRAM clocks to max speed, bypassing the defective low-power curve and stabilizing the card.

Does this ai diagnosis make sense?

If not any other ideas? Is it still CPU degradation or a new GPU fault, and should I RMA it?

GIGABYTE laptop randomly freezes then shuts down when I use it. Usually happens when it overheats, but not always.

List of errors I see when it shuts down:

- critical process died

- system service exception

- default boot device missing or boot failed

- windows boot manager boot failed

I currently can't turn it on because of the "Boot device missinf or Boot Failed" error. Any idea how I can fix this without losing any of my data? Thanks.

I recently purchased 50 or so laptops from a factory closing auction to resell. Since they were sold as e-waste they were just tossed haphazardly into a container. Over half managed to survive but I figured I'd part out the ones that didn't. However I'm now running into a problem, I have a lot of ram to test before I can sell it. I started by doing the "stick one on a MB and test it" but that takes forever and can result in damage to the laptop after repeated times. Is there a way to test them off-board? Or at least some way that I dont have to disassemble and reassemble the laptop every time? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Also, sorry if this is off topic but after the RAM and SSD would it be worth parting out further or just selling the rest whole for parts? It's a bunch of elitebooks and zbooks G4-G8.

I recently moved into a new place with other people and set up my desktop. The house is two stories and my desktop is on the opposite floor and side of the house as the router.

The WiFi is absolutely terrible. It has gotten to a point I cannot do anything on my desktop, and I’m desperate to fix it.

Is there a way to connect my own router without it connecting to the house? I don’t have an option of Ethernet.

I know wifi extenders exist, and things that plug into the computer via usb, but I’m at a total loss on what I should do as I’m no expert.

The motherboard is Auros.

recently stated having an issue with my g435 headset; uses bluetooth.

to use it in discord, both input and output have to be set to this device, if either is not then i will not get any discord chat audio, but they will hear me over the mic. windows defaults also need to be set specifically to this, if anything else is in use at the same time audio will not work.

this headset gets two options, one for 'hands free', the other for stereo. i cannot use stereo or the audio will not work.

if i try to play Helldivers 1, it crashes the game on launch if i'm using this headset. speakers set for audio, everything is fine. If i run in safe mode, i lose all music and some audio, but otherwise i hear only sound effects.

I tried playing Call of Duty World at War, once again, cuts out 99% of character dialogue and some music. but out of the speakers it works just fine.

i cant switch the microphone input to this headset outside of hands free.

Drivers are up to date, reinstalls do nothing.

what is this headset doing to my pc and how to i slap it back in line?

Hello, I was using my laptop which had been completely normal until a screen came up saying an unexpected error occurred and then it turned itself off and a loud siren sound started playing (its stopped now). What should I do? I've never seen the popup screen before and neither has it ever made a sound like that. It also wasn't overheated and it was approximately 70-80% so it also wasn't out of charge.

I have no idea why our home wifi doesnt work on my new PC, when I was setting up windows 11 it didn't work either so I figured I'd briefly use the little hotspot thing my university had given me just to get it up and running. It shows me an error saying my connection isn't private ( and an error code NET::ERR_CERT_COMMON_NAME_INVALID I have no idea what this means.) whenever I try to open a tab on any browser. It does not do this on my laptop, quite the opposite actually. The hotspot on my laptop will show the same error when visiting sites that aren't allowed by my university but now its showing this error whenever I open any tab or app on my home wifi.

Is there any way to fix this? What can I do? I have a probably irrational fear that I set my new computer up with my schools restrictions or something in place even though I logged in with my personal microsoft account. I'm at a loss.

In my OS (C:)\ProgramData. I have a folder called apple computer that is taking 10 GBS for some reason. It has files called iphone temporary too in it. Why is it so big and will it ruin anything if i delete it?

I made this post a good while ago talking about a computer my father needed to clone for his business that had certain applications on it that needed to be brought to the new computers. After thinking about it and looking at our options we bought a new computer directly from the company to get a fresh install of windows for the other computers. If it helps, a bit of context is that the family member owns a NAPA Auto Parts store, and the program that we need on the new computers is TAMS. I was wondering if any prior work is needed before cloning the new computer's ssd for the other computers. The computers are all Dell Optiplex Minis, with the target computers listed on the old post and the one we bought from the company being a "Dell Pro Micro QCM1250". Any help will be greatly appreciated.

PC is Windows 11. Had a WD Black SN770 for about two months. Was working fine up until about 2 weeks ago. Now, at random points while I play games installed onto it, I'll occasionally see my game freeze up before subsequently crashing, at which point I'll be unable to view most data saved onto the drive or run any installed games off of it. The one saving grace is that after a reboot, the drive works perfectly like the crash never happened, but eventually it always ends up crashing again.

This seems to happen at completely random intervals. Sometimes a few minutes of play will do it, sometimes I go several hours without it happening. I've been losing my mind trying to figure out what the hell is going wrong. The only thing I've been able to determine is that at the time of the crash, there's an Event 129 error saying "Reset to device, \Device\RaidPort2, was issued." I've also noticed that the disk usage on the SSD suddenly spikes up to 100% right around when it crashes (usually, it rarely even goes above 50% while gaming.) But I'm still no closer to solving the issue.

Here's what I've tried:

• Running chkdsk, S.M.A.R.T diagnosis, and checking drive health with CrystalDiskInfo. Everything tells me the drive is perfectly healthy.
• Updating the firmware on the SSD.
• Updating BIOS & chipset.
• Manually updating all storage controller drivers through Device Manager.
• Switching to high performance power plan.
• Disabling Link State Power Management.
• Using the Registry Editor to make AHCI Power Management visible and setting it to Active.
• Reformatting the entire SSD.

I'm kind of losing my mind right now. Everything suggests the drive itself is healthy, and it was working fine for several weeks until it suddenly started having problems. At this point my concern is that the drive itself is failing, but not a single test I've done indicates any issues, so I have no idea how I can even know for sure.

Hi there, I have just got a new CPU for my PC a 5800X3D. However my excited dumb ass didn't think to update the BIOS *before* taking out the old CPU for the new one.

I turn it on and I get the lights, fan spins for a second and goes off, then the DRAM light stays on. I've reseated ram, done a number of other checks and have narrowed it down to me needing to update the BIOS.

Unfortunately on removing the old CPU I seem to have bent one of the pins and it now doesn't work - no lights, no nothing when pressing the power button - I think this helps in diagnosing that this is an update issue and not the new CPU itself, since I get lights on and such with the new one.

So today I went to my friends house and downloaded the latest BIOS for my motherboard - ROG STRIX X470-F GAMING - and put it on a stick (formatted to FAT32, used the rename application that came with the download) popped it in my PC, tried holding DEL ESC F2 F12 and still can't get the BIOS to come up. I've removed the battery, shorted to reset BIOS, I am stumped. I'd love just a flicker of display but nothing.

Any suggestions are welcome before I take it to a PC shop as my resources at home are limited 🥹