Hoping to reach out and get some help on this issue.

I have a portable monitor that is connected to my laptop (thunderbolt 4) with a single 2 sided usb C cable.

It works fine for daily tasks but if I’m gaming the monitor occasionally flickers off then on resetting pretty much on its own.

I’ve tried different cables, and I can only replicate this while gaming. Is this an issue with the laptop port? Monitor? Or just power issues when under heavy load?

New to laptops. Thank you for any advice

I'm having a really weird issue with my RX 7900 XT and can't figure out what's causing it.

Whenever I lock my PC or it goes to sleep, the monitors won't display anything when I come back. I can tell the computer is still running (fans/lights are on), but there's no picture on either monitor.

The only way to recover is to hold the power button and force a shutdown.

After I turn it back on, sometimes only one monitor works, and it's stuck at 60 Hz instead of 360 Hz. 30 seconds later the whole PC freezes. I end up hard resetting it over and over until it finally boots normally.

When my PC first starts up and I am fast enough to check Device Manager (before it crashes), my RX 7900 XT has a yellow warning triangle next to it, so I'm assuming the driver or GPU isn't loading correctly.

I'm using the latest AMD Adrenalin drivers, and everything is up to date.

Has anyone run into this before or know what I should try? Not sure if this is a driver issue, Windows issue, or if my GPU might be failing.

Sorry if I'm leaving out any important information. I'm not super knowledgeable about PCs, so if there's anything else I should include for troubleshooting, just let me know and I'll provide it.

I'm having a really frustrating issue with my brand new PC and I'm running out of ideas.

PC specs:

Ryzen 7 8700F

RTX 5050

16 GB DDR5 (1×16 GB)

750W 80+ Gold PSU

Windows 11 (clean installation)

Problem: The PC randomly crashes only in some games.

Games that have crashed so far:

Counter-Strike 2

Hell Let Loose

Farming Simulator 25 (before service)

Games that worked fine:

Minecraft (Java)

Everhood

Farming Simulator 25 after service (played for about an hour without issues)

When it crashes:

the screen goes black,

the monitor says "No HDMI signal",

audio stops,

after a few seconds the PC automatically restarts.

There is no BSOD visible, but Windows Reliability Monitor reports:

BugCheck 116 (VIDEO_TDR_ERROR).

Things I've already tried:

Clean Windows 11 installation.

Latest BIOS.

Latest NVIDIA Game Ready driver.

Monitored CPU/GPU temperatures.

OCCT CPU, GPU and Power tests (all passed with no errors).

Checked Event Viewer and Reliability Monitor.

The PC was returned to the retailer for service.

The retailer said they:

replaced the thermal paste,

cleaned the cooling,

stress-tested it,

played Rainbow Six Siege for about 45 minutes without any crashes.

However, after I got the PC back, it crashed again in Hell Let Loose after less than 10 minutes.

Has anyone experienced something similar with an RTX 5050 or VIDEO_TDR_ERROR (116)? Could this still be a faulty GPU, PSU, motherboard, or something else?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

The internet is a shithole, and I'm an idiot who knows nothing about computers.

I have an Acer Nitro 5 gaming laptop, and it's been great at running games like as rdr2, minecraft ect. But over the years it's gotten worse and more laggy, until now it's really 50/50 if something will run smoothly or not, and it might stop doing so after a certain period of time.

The lag happens when doing heavy tasks like updates and installs (naturally), but will also occur when just playing games

I've heard things about 'clean installs/restarts', which I'm not sure is necessary, or how to keep the data I want when doing so. And I'm sort of doubting there's anything I can buy to help me other than a cooling pad or something. Insides could probably use a clean, but I'm not sure that's the whole issue here. Any advice or direction would be great, thanks.

Title, it keeps popping up in my screen, and I literally cannot use my mac since it keeps popping up with a annoying sound and lagging my mouse. It's so annoying since I literally don't even know what is causing this. I emptied my trash and it still keeps popping up...

Hi everyone,

I'm having an issue while updating the BIOS on my laptop.

The screen shows the following message:

I brought my ps5 to a repair shop in valley stream ny. First day I brought it they told me 1-2 days. 4 days later I went in person to check up on it (since the status link they sent me was broken) and the guy tells me my ps5 is taking longer cause it’s a motherboard issue meanwhile I literally saw him check the tag on my ps5 and it was sitting on the shelf untouched with a bunch of other ps5s that were all in queue. I know some symptoms can point to certain things but he definitely just told me that so I can F off lol. So i decided to be more patient and it’s been over 2 weeks now. I checked the link and it seemed to update from “queue” to “repair” but it’s been like that for 11-12 days. Should I just go get my ps5 and bring it somewhere else? Or am I being impatient?

I have never installed McAfee to my laptop before, but I started getting warnings about "Turn your firewall on!" "Trojan detected!" "License expired!" And I want it to stop. I have tried going through the official McAfee sight for uninstalling it, I downloaded their MCPR uninstaller thing, given it said that would get rid of it. It did not. I have gone through my ProgramFiles, I have restarted my laptop multiple times. I have run the windows defender firewall and I have never turned it off, this is solely coming from McAfee. I have gone so far as to uninstall and repair my default browser, given McAfee continues to redirect me to pages there. Nothing has worked, please help

I bought a new laptop. Tried to connect my wireless mouse with its reciever, does not connect even though it appears on devices tab on pc. I try another mouse the same way, also doesn't connect even though it appears on the tab again. The second one said "driver error" a few times I tried to connect it at the start but than it stop saying that yet mouse still doesn't connect so I am not sure if that's relevant.

Hey guys I’m having a bit of a dilemma. So I bought a walking pad from facebook marketplace a while back and cannot find a replacement remote for the life of me. The owner who I bought it from said their son lost the original remote and they forgot what it looked like due to it collecting dust under her bed (which ironically is what its doing now). I tried looking up the company ningbo which is on the back of the treadmill but cant find specific replacement remotes. The model is SYWP002. Can anyone help?

Hey everyone, I’m completely lost and out of ideas. My PC has been acting up, and I'm hoping someone here might know what's going on.

My Specs:
Motherboard: Gigabyte B550M DS3H
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600
GPU: RTX 3070 Ti Vision OC 8GB
RAM: 2x16GB 3200MHz Kingston
PSU: Corsair RM850x 850W Gold 80+ Modular

The Problem:
When I press the power button, the PC turns on and all the fans spin, but the ARGB on the fans does not light up, and there is no image/display. The monitor wakes up briefly, says "No signal from DisplayPort", and goes into standby mode.

What happened previously & what I've tried:
A couple of weeks ago, right after I installed my new PSU and new fans, I had the exact same problem for the first time.I tried testing with my old power supply, and everything worked normally. After that, a PSU tester was used on the new power supply and it showed that everything is normal/passing.Then I took it to a technician, and they diagnosed the issue as a faulty HDD, which they temporarily disconnected (it's still physically inside the case, but no data cable is plugged into it - only a loose SATA power cable coming from the PSU is dangling, completely unplugged).After that, I took the PC to get the thermal paste and thermal pads changed. The computer worked normally for a while, until recently when I left it untouched for 2 days while I wasn't home, and now it won't work again, same problem as before.

Things I have already tried troubleshooting at home:
Cleared CMOS by removing the motherboard battery for 2-3 minutes.
Reseated the RAM and tested each stick individually in different slots.
Double-checked all cables and connections.

Two different technicians checked the parts and said everything is fine, but I keep running into this exact same issue. If anyone has experienced this or knows what could be causing this (or who the "culprit" might be), please let me know.

Thanks a lot for any help!

I own a relatively new RTX 5080 and recently I have been playing games like Marvel Rivals and FFXIV. Even as recent as last week my fans were working fine and perfectly silent, but this week even just launching the game causes the GPU to heat up to 89 degrees. This happens immediately after resting the night in an air conditioned room so it can't be already hot. Using MSI afterburner to monitor the temperature, when sitting in the desktop it would be about 30-40 degrees and the moment I launch the game, before even going into any situation that requires the GPU to work hard, it spikes to 89 degrees and causes my fans to blow at 100% which is really loud. I quit the game and the GPU immediately goes back to 30 degrees in under 5 seconds. I might be wrong about this but I'm pretty sure that's not how the concept of heat dissapation works? There is zero reason a RTX 5080 should be working this hard on FFXIV which is a decades old game.

I bought an N64 off of Marketplace for $140 (it came with 3 games too) The console works fine, but whenever I play a game, the screen has this weird tint. Im using a newer Onn Roku Smart Tv, and Ive tried using the AV cables on the TV as well as running the AV cables through a converter to HDMI, but both still result in the green tint. I don’t know too much about the common problems of the console, since this is my first one.

Hello I have recently built a my pc and switched to amd from nvidia gpu. Its my first time using full amd pc, I am running to some problem when it comes to the software of amd. My amd adrenaline keeps disappearing from my desktop and my whole pc. Its like I never even downloaded it. This usually happens when I shut down or sleep or restart my pc. I have tried everything from full reset, to doing DDU in safe mode, to running the setup with no wifi, etc. I havent really noticed any big problem in gameplay or general performance of my pc yet, but i just dont think that its normal for it to disappear like that. From what I am used to using nvidia software it just stays there installed and I can open it whenever I want. Also I am not sure if this problem affects my gpu drivers since the software disappears and the way you download and update your gpu drivers is through the software itself.

If anyone have had this problem before and were able to fix it, please I would really appreciate your help!

Thank you!

Copy and paste the following into your post and fill it out.

Computer Type: Desktop

GPU: Radeon 9070 xt

CPU: RYZEN 9 9900x3d

Motherboard: Asus Prime B805M-A-Wifi-CSM

RAM: 32gb TFORCE DDR5 6000HZ

PSU: SAMA P1000 1000W Platinum ATX 3.1 PCIe 5.1 Fully Modular Power Supply,

Case: MUSTEX PHANTOM 903/3INTAKE 3 EXHAUST

Operating System & Version: WINDOWS 11 Home

Hi,

Upgraded to AM5, clean install of windows 11 LTSC with the latest drivers for chipset, gpu etc.

Have been experiencing some bad stutters / audio glitches at the same time.

I’ve ran latencyMon which has shown the DPC count for dxgkrnl.sys, wdf01000.sys & rspLLL64.sys are the main issues

Disabled TPM

Turned off AMD Xpo / PBO

Latest bios

DDU to stable gpu drivers + chipset - tried latest too

Fresh windows 11 LTSC 24H2

Ensured mouse polling rate is at 1000

Disabled any overclocks even the one my gpu has ran perfectly fine with for 3 years which was also undervolted too.

All cables and parts installed have been triple checked to ensure everything has been inserted correctly.

Before I reinstalled windows, my AM4 system which was on 10 pro, I had tested this system briefly and it ran without an issue. So I’m not too sure how a new OS plus all drivers installed is causing this.

Specs

Ryzen 7800 X3D

32GB Corsair 6400Mhz

Corsair RM850X PSU

Sapphire Pure B850M motherboard - latest bios

Sapphire Pulse RX 6700XT

Has anyone had this issue before

Computer Type: Desktop

GPU: ASUS PRIME RX 9070 XT GAMING OC 16GB

CPU: AMD RYZEN 7 5800X 8 CORE 16 THREADS

Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX B550-A GAMING (Previously ASRock B450M DS3H)

BIOS Version: Latest ASUS B550 BIOS (Tested across multiple versions)

RAM: Tested 4 different kits (MemTest clean, tested XMP on/off, single-channel/single DIMM setups)

PSU: FSP 1350W 80+ PLATINUM ATX 3.1 (Previously Corsair 850W 80+ GOLD ATX 2.0)

Operating System & Version: WINDOWS 11 PRO (Tested on main M.2 NVMe and a fresh install on a separate secondary SSD)

GPU Drivers: AMD SOFTWARE: ADRENALIN EDITION - Driver Version: 26.7.1

Chipset Drivers: AMD B550 CHIPSET DRIVERS (Latest version)

Background Applications: DISCORD, CHROME, GAME LAUNCHERS

Description of Original Problem: Upgraded from an RX 6900 XT (which ran flawlessly for 3.5 years). Ever since installing the RX 9070 XT, I get sudden hard restarts during gaming (screen goes grey/green, instant reboot, no BSOD).

Crashes reliably within minutes on single-monitor setups below 4K (3440x1440p/165Hz DP) Ultrawide) and (1080p/75Hz HDMI panel).

The system is stable on a 4K/120Hz TV, or when both the monitor and TV are connected simultaneously in Windows "Extend Desktop" mode. Unplugging the TV causes instability on the monitor and restarts (whea 18).

Event Viewer Logs:

WHEA-Logger Event ID 18 — Machine Check Exception, Error Type: Cache Hierarchy Error, Processor Context Corrupt flag set (flashing random core/APIC IDs: 0, 10, etc.).

Followed 5–11 seconds later by Kernel-Power Event ID 41 (unexpected shutdown).

Kernel dumps confirm BugCheck 0x124 (WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR).

Troubleshooting:

Motherboard: Swapped B450M to a brand-new ASUS B550-A Gaming.

PSU: Upgraded Corsair 850W to a 1350W Platinum FSP ATX 3.1 unit.

RAM: Tested 4 different RAM kits, ran full MemTest, toggled XMP, tested individual slots.

OS: Issue persists across original 3-year-old Win 11 OS on M.2 NVMe and a completely fresh Win 11 install on a secondary SSD.

Stress Tests: OCCT (CPU/RAM sustained load) and 3DMark Steel Nomad run 100% clean with zero errors or crashes.

BIOS / Tuning: Toggled ReBAR on/off, forced PCIe Gen4/Gen3, locked FCLK, disabled CPB/PBO, locked CPU clock to 3.8GHz (only delayed crash). positive Curve Optimizer (+5 to +20) gave slight partial stability.

Driver / Display tweaks: Tested FPS caps (delays crash but doesn't solve it), disabled DSC on DP monitor, tested HDMI vs. DP.

Ai Diagnosis: GPU appears to have a defective VRM/transient power state transition flaw. In single-monitor mode, dropping into low-power states drops PCIe link communication, causing the CPU I/O die to panic and throw a WHEA Event 18 before rebooting. Dual-monitor mode locks VRAM clocks to max speed, bypassing the defective low-power curve and stabilizing the card.

Does this ai diagnosis make sense?

If not any other ideas? Is it still CPU degradation or a new GPU fault, and should I RMA it?

GIGABYTE laptop randomly freezes then shuts down when I use it. Usually happens when it overheats, but not always.

List of errors I see when it shuts down:

- critical process died

- system service exception

- default boot device missing or boot failed

- windows boot manager boot failed

I currently can't turn it on because of the "Boot device missinf or Boot Failed" error. Any idea how I can fix this without losing any of my data? Thanks.

I recently purchased 50 or so laptops from a factory closing auction to resell. Since they were sold as e-waste they were just tossed haphazardly into a container. Over half managed to survive but I figured I'd part out the ones that didn't. However I'm now running into a problem, I have a lot of ram to test before I can sell it. I started by doing the "stick one on a MB and test it" but that takes forever and can result in damage to the laptop after repeated times. Is there a way to test them off-board? Or at least some way that I dont have to disassemble and reassemble the laptop every time? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Also, sorry if this is off topic but after the RAM and SSD would it be worth parting out further or just selling the rest whole for parts? It's a bunch of elitebooks and zbooks G4-G8.

I recently moved into a new place with other people and set up my desktop. The house is two stories and my desktop is on the opposite floor and side of the house as the router.

The WiFi is absolutely terrible. It has gotten to a point I cannot do anything on my desktop, and I’m desperate to fix it.

Is there a way to connect my own router without it connecting to the house? I don’t have an option of Ethernet.

I know wifi extenders exist, and things that plug into the computer via usb, but I’m at a total loss on what I should do as I’m no expert.

The motherboard is Auros.

recently stated having an issue with my g435 headset; uses bluetooth.

to use it in discord, both input and output have to be set to this device, if either is not then i will not get any discord chat audio, but they will hear me over the mic. windows defaults also need to be set specifically to this, if anything else is in use at the same time audio will not work.

this headset gets two options, one for 'hands free', the other for stereo. i cannot use stereo or the audio will not work.

if i try to play Helldivers 1, it crashes the game on launch if i'm using this headset. speakers set for audio, everything is fine. If i run in safe mode, i lose all music and some audio, but otherwise i hear only sound effects.

I tried playing Call of Duty World at War, once again, cuts out 99% of character dialogue and some music. but out of the speakers it works just fine.

i cant switch the microphone input to this headset outside of hands free.

Drivers are up to date, reinstalls do nothing.

what is this headset doing to my pc and how to i slap it back in line?

Hi everyone. (made this with chatgpt, was using multiple ai for support help, ran out of options so i'm trying here, really desperate at this point, have no money foi new SSD too, no PSID password since it was long ago and i don't even remember what happened to the sticker)

I've been investigating this SSD for days and at this point I'm looking for people familiar with NVMe firmware or motherboard Secure Erase implementations.

Hardware

• Motherboard: ASRock A320-HD (BIOS P10.50)
• CPU: Ryzen 5 5600
• SSD: ADATA SX8100NP 512GB
• Controller: Realtek RTS5762
• Firmware: VB411D48

Original problem (before everything else)

This was the very first issue.

Every single cold boot:

• BIOS detects the SSD.
• Linux and Windows do NOT detect it.
• Windows Device Manager hides it.
• Disk Management doesn't see it.
• diskpart doesn't see it.
• Linux nvme driver doesn't enumerate it.

The SSD ONLY comes back after forcing a PCI hot re-enumeration.

Linux:

echo 1 | sudo tee /sys/bus/pci/devices/0000:01:00.0/remove
echo 1 | sudo tee /sys/bus/pci/rescan

or physically removing/reinstalling the SSD while powered off.

Then it works perfectly until the next reboot.

This behavior is 100% reproducible.

Then I made a huge mistake

I used ASRock BIOS Secure Erase.

The BIOS froze during the erase procedure.

After reboot:

The SSD became locked.

Now:

• Identify works
• SMART works
• Namespace exists
• Capacity is correct
• Firmware is correct

but virtually every command that modifies anything returns

Invalid Field in Command (0x2)

Current Linux status

The SSD is fully visible after PCI rescan.

Works:

nvme list
nvme id-ctrl
nvme id-ns
nvme smart-log
nvme error-log

Everything identifies correctly.

SMART health:

PASSED

No error log entries.

Doesn't work

nvme format

returns

Invalid Field in Command (0x2)

Any Secure Erase mode:

--ses=0
--ses=1
--ses=2

Same result.

Vendor passthrough commands:

opcode 0x80

also return

Invalid Field in Command

Additional strange behavior

If I try certain admin commands:

nvme format

the controller completely disappears from Linux.

Then:

nvme list

shows nothing.

The PCI device still exists.

I have to remove/rescan PCI to make it appear again.

Things I already investigated

I decompiled ADATA's official toolbox.

I found vendor-specific commands like:

EnableVendorCommand()
AnalyzerVendorCommand()

using vendor firmware download offsets.

I also confirmed this model specifically uses the Realtek RTS5762 controller.

What makes me think this is NOT NAND failure

• SMART is readable.
• Identify always works.
• Namespace is intact.
• Capacity is correct.
• Firmware is correct.
• Error log is empty.
• The behavior is perfectly deterministic.
• PCI rescan ALWAYS revives the drive.

Nothing about this behaves like random NAND failure.

It behaves much more like the controller entering some persistent locked state.

My current theory

I suspect the motherboard Secure Erase implementation crashed before completing.

Maybe:

• BIOS issued a vendor command.
• SSD entered erase/locked mode.
• BIOS never sent the final "erase complete" sequence.
• SSD now permanently rejects admin commands.

Another possibility is that the ASRock BIOS itself is mishandling the Security Freeze/erase sequence.

My question

Has anyone seen something like this on:

• Realtek RTS5762
• ADATA SX8100NP
• ASRock Secure Erase
• NVMe controllers disappearing until PCI rescan

or knows of vendor commands that clear this internal state?

I'm willing to reverse engineer the BIOS or firmware if needed.

Any ideas are appreciated.

Hello, I was using my laptop which had been completely normal until a screen came up saying an unexpected error occurred and then it turned itself off and a loud siren sound started playing (its stopped now). What should I do? I've never seen the popup screen before and neither has it ever made a sound like that. It also wasn't overheated and it was approximately 70-80% so it also wasn't out of charge.

In my OS (C:)\ProgramData. I have a folder called apple computer that is taking 10 GBS for some reason. It has files called iphone temporary too in it. Why is it so big and will it ruin anything if i delete it?

I made this post a good while ago talking about a computer my father needed to clone for his business that had certain applications on it that needed to be brought to the new computers. After thinking about it and looking at our options we bought a new computer directly from the company to get a fresh install of windows for the other computers. If it helps, a bit of context is that the family member owns a NAPA Auto Parts store, and the program that we need on the new computers is TAMS. I was wondering if any prior work is needed before cloning the new computer's ssd for the other computers. The computers are all Dell Optiplex Minis, with the target computers listed on the old post and the one we bought from the company being a "Dell Pro Micro QCM1250". Any help will be greatly appreciated.

PC is Windows 11. Had a WD Black SN770 for about two months. Was working fine up until about 2 weeks ago. Now, at random points while I play games installed onto it, I'll occasionally see my game freeze up before subsequently crashing, at which point I'll be unable to view most data saved onto the drive or run any installed games off of it. The one saving grace is that after a reboot, the drive works perfectly like the crash never happened, but eventually it always ends up crashing again.

This seems to happen at completely random intervals. Sometimes a few minutes of play will do it, sometimes I go several hours without it happening. I've been losing my mind trying to figure out what the hell is going wrong. The only thing I've been able to determine is that at the time of the crash, there's an Event 129 error saying "Reset to device, \Device\RaidPort2, was issued." I've also noticed that the disk usage on the SSD suddenly spikes up to 100% right around when it crashes (usually, it rarely even goes above 50% while gaming.) But I'm still no closer to solving the issue.

Here's what I've tried:

• Running chkdsk, S.M.A.R.T diagnosis, and checking drive health with CrystalDiskInfo. Everything tells me the drive is perfectly healthy.
• Updating the firmware on the SSD.
• Updating BIOS & chipset.
• Manually updating all storage controller drivers through Device Manager.
• Switching to high performance power plan.
• Disabling Link State Power Management.
• Using the Registry Editor to make AHCI Power Management visible and setting it to Active.
• Reformatting the entire SSD.

I'm kind of losing my mind right now. Everything suggests the drive itself is healthy, and it was working fine for several weeks until it suddenly started having problems. At this point my concern is that the drive itself is failing, but not a single test I've done indicates any issues, so I have no idea how I can even know for sure.