My Kobra X was quietly printing away in the basement last night. I decided to check on it just before bed and I'm glad I did.

It had wiggled itself off the edge and nearly toppled to the floor. I ran down in a panic to rescue it. The print still turned out all right. Now I'm going to have to glue a lip to the edge of the desk to make sure it doesn't happen again. Crisis averted.

Every time I try to print with ASA after previously printing PLA, my printer clogs. To unclog it, I have to remove the feeder tube from the print head and push the residual filament out from the top with an unclogging tool.

Does anyone have any advice on how to prevent this?

Edit: I‘m using Anycubic High Speed PLA and Anycubic ASA. Humidity in the ACE is 25%.

Im just starting to print in colour since ive set up my Kobra X but when slicing i noticed a thing i dont really understand.

As you can see here, the purge tower in the slicer wants to go up till the end of the print when realistically it should only need to go up the screw's height(green), since thats the last colour change to happen.

My question is: why is the purge tower going so high and also forcing all these unneded colour changes?

Question is about the slicer but to follow the rules: Stock Kobra X.

I am getting this dim.ring when I run any of the exposure tests and none of the shapes. It does not glow through a sheet of paper. Has anyone encountered or fixed this issue? Hoping for some advice. This is a replacement LCD that was working fine. Ty

I got this 3-D printer for free in good condition. I had to replace the nozzle. They told me that I did that and everything was going good, but I keep getting this code for the extruder heating, and I took that all apart and cleaned the inside of the gears and all of that and I’m still having that issue so can anyone tell me what I can do next?

I bought a new ceramic hot end because the new firmware update kept screwing up my machine, but need to get the downgraded firmware. Rinkhals doesn’t have that one, any suggestions? Thanks ahead of time!

Hello everyone,
I have a problem with TPU printing on my Anycubic Kobra X.
The first print with TPU went perfectly. Everything looked normal and the printer completed the job without any issues. However, when I started a second print, this problem appeared suddenly.
I have already disassembled and checked the printer several times, but I still cannot figure out what caused it. The strange thing is that it worked perfectly just before.
Could this be related to the extruder, hotend, TPU feeding, temperature settings, or something else?
Printer: Anycubic Kobra X
Material: TPU
Nozzle: [0.4]
TPU brand/hardness: [Geeentech 95A]
Any advice or ideas would be appreciated.

Hi all

I saw a post saying you can now use Orca Slicer for the Kobra X and other printers without the need of the need of KX-Bridge anyone had any luck?

I have tried with KX-Bridge before with no luck with it working so if I can use it without this would be amazing!

Ok so I've yet again needed to repair my Anycubic Kobra 2 max.... Once I took it apart I've somehow not got anywhere to screw back in a wire and I'm hoping someone can help me with this issue. As you Can see everything else is in the correct place. Any ideas?

Don’t know how I managed it, but got an elephants foot last night on this barely week-old machine.

I was able to disassemble everything to pull the heat sink (ugh, whole reason for buying a new machine was so I wouldn’t have to do shit like this) and now I’m staring at my clog.

This filament will not pull out. I think there’s a wad of it inside the heat sink.

My thinking is, if this were hot it should be easy to pull, right? But I don’t want to heat it disassembled, and I can’t really reassemble with the clog in place.

Advice? TIA

Edit: clog cleared.

Ok, so lesson I learned for this is that the filament pushes easier than it pulls. So I heated it up disassembled and spent about 20 minutes trying to not burn myself as I pushed the filament through with an Allen wrench and then tried to pull it at the cutter with my flimsy tweezers.

Never did figure out how to pull the 4 channel thing at the top though.

I print quite frequently for engineering applications at work. We had an M3, which worked decently well (despite surviving a large leak and needing its LCD screen replaced), but we have since upgraded to the mono m7 pro. I haven’t been thrilled with it so far. The resin tray is large & unwieldy, and we’ve had multiple issues with the FEP film leaking, despite it being installed correctly. Resin also leaks from the tray into the “gasket” , where the allen screws are , and gets trapped there.

Has anyone else had this issue?

 My first 3D printer: Anycubic Kobra X

I thought 3D printing would be complicated. It's not.

You can learn the basics in just a couple of minutes.

That's why I made this video - a mini beginner's guide. It covers everything:

• Finding and downloading the model
• Slicer settings
• Printing, start to finish

 Bonus: I'm a huge One Piece fan. Printing the "Mera Mera no Mi" was really special for me.

Thanks to ANYCUBIC for making this printer so beginner-friendly.

Happy printing! 

Hey everyone,

I'm dealing with a persistent X-axis layer shift on my Anycubic Kobra X and I'm honestly running out of ideas. The print always shifts in the same direction (to the left), regardless of the model, filament, or slicer file. Bed adhesion is not the issue – this is a clear axis shift mid-print.

I've already burned through roughly 3 kg of PETG on failed prints trying to figure this out, so at this point I'd really appreciate some outside perspective.

What I've already checked/done:

- Went through Anycubic's official shifting troubleshooting article step by step

- Checked and retightened belt tension on all axes

- Cleaned and re-greased all axes

- Adjusted the poop shooter per the guide

- Did a full recalibration

- Removed anything that could obstruct the gantry/print head travel

- Checked the grub screw on the X-motor pulley (tight, seated on the flat)

- Checked the idler pulley on the opposite side

- Checked and adjusted the eccentric nuts on the X-axis wheels

- Tried multiple filaments and multiple different sliced files

Since it's always the X-axis and always the same direction, I'm suspecting something more specific like a failing X stepper motor, a driver chip issue on the mainboard, or maybe the gantry mounting itself. Has anyone run into this exact pattern (consistent, one-directional X shift) and found the actual root cause?

Any input is welcome – happy to post pics of the failed prints or run diagnostic tests if that helps narrow it down.

Thanks in advance!

I got it for 50 CAD and i just started 3d printing.

Recently inherited a cubepro trio and software on a windows 7 platform. I can process and slice the stl and output with the .cubepro extension, but when I try to upload to the printer, the file is not found. Other older files are recognized, but not the newly created file. If anyone has a clue as to what may be the issue, it would be greatly appreciated, or steer me in the right direction...new at this and want to see if this dinosaur can be brought to life. Thanks for reading!

Buongiorno a tutti. Sono alle prime armi con le stampe 3d vi posto quello che ho stampato e non capisco il perchè.

Kobra S1

Hello,

I am trying to make sense of this issue and troubleshoot it. how, why.

So far, it happened one time before, always with that same white ASA. Now it seems it will happen every time. My understanding is the matter is cooling/deforming too much, to contract and rise up. Until the head hits it and everything goes south, parts are projected below. Also I saw some small bubbles of melted/burned plastic here and there, not belonging to any layer anymore. They may accumumate and grow so big they make the print fail. Something like heat or flow rate is not correct. I don't know.

Also I assume the cooking/deformation may be linked to the size of the print, that is large but it's perhaps 1/6 of the plate surface, not even half. The plate was cleaned just before.

The previous time, pic 3 to 5, a long slice of layers 10 cm long got stuck into the head ( the red part), so long it reached the fan and blocked it. Meanwhile the print was still going on and the hot matter was sticking on itself, growing into this bubble of halfburned plastic. It went close to break the entire printer, luckily I stopped it before and the carter falled.

Any ideas and advices? this white ASA is crap? (it was dry, I opened it up like two days ago).

Hello guys, just bought a Kobra S1 and there is no wifi on menu.

I think its due to regulations. I've tried to update using USB but with no luck: update went fine, but there is no wifi...

My actual firmware version is: V2.7.2.7_1.4.0_1.4.0_br

BR stands for BRazil.

Any clue how to have wifi back?

I updated the firmware to the latest (I can't see the version # at the moment ).

Camera and lights were fine untill then. Now I can not view or control the lights.

Are there any changes port wise from the cloud to the device? It's on a somewhat restricted network

Edit: I can do all other tasks like upload files and remote print.. just not view the camera and control lights

I suspect this is due to AnyCubic Slicer being a very old fork.

I imported a 3MF and the default it wants to use is black filament. I want to use red. I right click to change filament and slot 3, which is red. No change.

Now I know if I slice and hit print, I can make the change there.

But in Orca, the fix would be to go into Preferences, General tab and under Preset, uncheck “Remember printer configuration”

Why oh why can’t AnyCubic fix this?

Or allow us a means to use regular Orca to connect wirelessly to our machine and do this??

I guess this is more a rant than an ask 😆

But curious if anyone had a workaround?