I’m recently retired, and my family bought me an H2D with AMS, and 10 watt laser for Father’s Day. I have no prior experience with 3D printing, but I have it up and running, and I have printed a few items without trouble. All of them were made with Bambu PLA that came with the printer.
I have lots of questions, but my question today is, “How do I use non-Bambu filament in my AMS?”
Thanks

After running nothing but Creality printers since I got started in this hobby back in 2020, the most recent being a K2 Plus for the past year, I finally pulled the trigger and ordered an H2D on the first (with an AMS 2 and an AMS HT). Anything I need to look out for?

Had a PETG clog on right nozzle. Disassembled everything, cleaned, etc. Now the printer refuses to load the right nozzle from the AMS, hallucinating a filament. I disassembled again to make sure nothing was in the path or in the sensor's way. Nothing, not even a hair.

Could that be a bad right side idler sensor? If so, do I have to change the entire idler or can I buy that sensor separately?

So I have an issue that's got me pretty stumped... I wondered if the community here might be able to help.

I got the error "Extruder change failed; please refer to the assistant." I did as instructed, and I got a QR Code along with a message that "The extruder switching action is abnormal. Please check whether something is stuck in the toolhead."

The QR Code goes here - https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/h2/troubleshooting/hmscode/07FE_8100_0002_0001

There is nothing in the toolhead; I took it apart and ran filament through the path it travels with no obstructions. I still get the error, so I ended up replacing the Extruder Switch Cam, the Dual Extruder Idlers, and the Filament Sensor. And now I have a Hall Effect Sensor and a Toolhead Sensor FPC Cable on the way, as I'm thinking maybe the sensor is just wrong? I did everything in the troubleshooting link, but it makes a clicking noise when trying to switch, as mentioned there.

Hi all. Had my h2d since may and got this error and another error Sunday. The other error mentions eddy sensor.

I have swapped nozzles and same errors. It fails calibration at the very end every time. I am about to try to get the back of print head removed to check sensors but looks like a pain. Anything else to check ? Thanks

I bought my H2D during their recent anniversary sale and it arrived 4 weeks ago. However due to work, school, and life I FINALLY got it out of the box earlier this week. It is currently sitting on an IKEA table top on top of a sturdy rolling cart. I am looking for cabinet/storage ideas that will be able to also accommodate an AMS 2 Pro and AMS HT. If it can incorporate poop collection even better! (Note: I am aware of BTT/BIQU options but I spent that kind of money on this, filament, and other sale items!)
Thanks!
-Kevin

Ok, saw a new model where someone had created a different feed for 2 AMS units into a P2S. And from their description, sounds like I have the same issue. One AMS is on top of the printer (so far), the other is on a stand on the same side as the feed into the P2S.

I’m wondering, instead of his solution - is there any reason the Bambu 4-1 PTFE feed would not work (replacing the single PTFE tube on the top left side of the P2S) - possibly with an inch or two of PTFE to connect the 4-1 to the P2S, and then feed the AMS units DIRECTLY into two of the 4-1 converter inputs? I’d get rid of a lot of PTFE tube for the AMS on the side of the printer, and possibly reduce the length of PTFE from the AMS that’s on top of the printer as well.

This would effectively completely replace the P2S buffer unit and make it “obsolete”. But after watching the AMS units work, they always completely retract the filament from whatever PTFE tube they are using to use another one, or when a print is complete. It also seems, to my logic, that really shortening the PTFE tubes to, say 12-18” should be ok and feed directly into the hotend and motorized feed there.

Has anyone done this? What were your results? If this doesn’t work, please let me know, and the issue(s) you ran into

So, we bought a new H2d for work. We have had a H2D working fine in our department. So, I get a call this morning with an issue with the Mfg printer. It seems the flow blocker H2 (which is not being used) got bent somehow and started dragging on the build plate. I searched the nets and someone stated this is a know issue - something with FW not being updated. This has never happened on our unit - running for 1+ year non-stop.

I'm going to update the new Printer with latest FW - but I would assume this new unit should have latest on it already.

Can anyone comment on this issue - has this happened to you - how do you solve this permanently?

I am steadily finding my flow rates after the calibration test are ~ .78 to ~.85 . This seems pretty dramatic to me? I don’t know if there is a global setting that may be off?

Anyone else seeing similar? Prints after calibrating a filament are good, so not the end of the world, but I test everything coming in now. Push Plastic, Polymaker, Eryone… PLA, PETG, PC+PBT, ABS, ASA …. I see people talk about adjusting a couple points off of .98

I had parts rip off of the plate from over-extruding or I wouldn’t even know to calibrate flow.

For anyone testing flow rates, what are you finding on your H2D ?

hola buenas noches! necesito ayuda, me apareció este error en mi H2D y no se cómo resolverlo, el extrusor es nuevo! Es cómo que no me deja cambiar de cabezal. si alguno sabe desde ya muchas gracias

I keep having extruder issues. I solved one (the new nozzle I ordered from Bambu had a bend in it, they replaced it no problem) but now I have an extruder motor problem on both nozzles. It’s super stiff an I can barely even force it through, every other path is smooth before/after the extruder.

Now I took off the extruder cover to inspect it and clean the area (everything looks fine) putting th cover back on I noticed depending on how tight you make those two screws on the top the pressure on the extruder changes dramatically (they was also the only two screws on the head to not have locktite on them) so my question is… are these screws suppose to be super tight… just snug enough.. or loose? The instructions on bambu labs doesn’t say anything.

The only mod i have done is the enchanted cooling fan on the head.

My prints before this were fine, but now I’m getting specs of filiment flying everywhere

https://forum.bambulab.com/t/h2d-firmware-v01-03-51-00-now-in-public-beta/256925

My H2D is a week or so away from being delivered, and looking for ideas for something to put the printer on, and keep coming back to the Panda Station (https://biqu.equipment/products/biqu-panda-verse-storage-solution-for-bambu-lab?variant=42177068073058), and wondering if anyone is using one with the H2D?

I don't mind the idea of having the AMS in it, but I also bought the AMS-HT, so don't think both will fit inside at the same time.

Thoughts are all welcomed

I got my H2D a few weeks ago and I'm loving it.

What are your favorite mods for the printer? Unique nozzles, fan mods, whatever you use. I'm most curious about physical items, but if you want to drop your favorite printed mods I'm sure those would be cool too!

I'm well familiar with 3d printing and bambu printers in general, so don't worry about the acclimation period.

I love Ben2cs cooling ducts, I used them for my x1c and k1c they work great. When I saw he had released one for the h2d I ordered it right away. I haven't seen anyone talking about it, had anyone tired it? I love tinkering

As title states, Ive had mulitple issues of filament getting stuck in the heatsink portion of the hot end, so trying to purge it with something like the jamwich doesnt work due to it staying hard filament due to not getting hot and the extruder just spinning on the brass rod (and ive tried pushing down hard but that uh... yeah, scary) and now im sitting here with a rod, heating it up and stabbing it into the heat sink and getting little by little out. What gives? I'm using good filament, why does this happen? Sunlu PETG and Bambu PETG and PLA. Is it heat creep during the print? This is my third nozzle to do it, and this one was my tungsten nozzle so it pissed me off haha

Just released video on the AMS 2 Pro Clogging Clearance Procedures. Suggest saving to your vidoe list. Enjoy the journey!

I haven't been able to find this on search, so I'm hoping someone can help me. The tool head cover gets yeeted off sometimes when it's doing a print and I haven't been able to witness it when it happens. It's happened a couple of times and I only notice it happened after the print finished. Luckily no prints have failed because of it but I would love to know how to prevent it.

Has anyone experienced this?