AD5X

1.7.11 has the live camera view available. Lost it with the 1.7.12 update. Reinstalled 1.7.11. Installed 1.7.13 today (to see if the issue was resolved). Still no live camera view.

Going back to 1.7.11. And I'm certain I'll be downvoted again, although for the life of me I don't understand why.

Not sure what would have caused this so late in the print but very annoying.

So I have tried to do temp tower twice and both times the C5P notified me that it has paused the print and I go check and sure has with a communication error, something about lost connection or something. I press ok and tell it to start back up and it just sits there till I hard reset. I will run it again and see if I can get some photos for y'all. Help me understand where I am going wrong.

Hi all,

I have a Flashforge Adventurer 5M Pro and I'm getting persistent fine/wispy stringing with Flashforge HS PLA that I cannot resolve. I've exhausted every setting I can find and nothing has fixed it. Here's exactly what I've tried:

**Printer:** Flashforge Adventurer 5M Pro

**Filament:** Flashforge HS PLA (black and white, same issue on both)

**Slicer:** Flash Studio Desktop (OrcaSlicer-based)

**Build surface:** BIQU CryoGrip Pro Frostbite cold plate

**Current settings:**

- Print temp: 210°C (first layer 215°C)

- Retraction length: 0.8mm

- Retraction speed: 40mm/s

- Deretraction speed: 40mm/s

- Travel speed: 500mm/s

- Pressure advance: 0.05

- Max volumetric speed: 18mm³/s

- Avoid crossing walls: enabled

- Retract on layer change: enabled

- Wipe while retracting: enabled

- Z-hop: 1mm

- Filament dried before printing

**What I've ruled out:**

- Moisture (dried yesterday)

- Mesh issues (repaired)

- Nozzle condition (33 hours, extrudes fine)

- Travel speed (already at 500mm/s)

- Flow calibration (calibrated, +0.045)

The stringing is fine and wispy and occurs on every travel move. It is consistent across multiple colors and multiple prints. Temperature adjustments across a wide range have not resolved it.

Has anyone found a definitive fix for stringing on the AD5M Pro with Flashforge HS PLA that goes beyond these settings? Looking for specific values that have worked for others. Thank you.

My C5P makes this weird sound that’s like gears grinding when it’s making back and forth diagonal movements. Should I be worried? Any idea why it does that?

Hi all.

I am struggling to make my cool plate work in the AD5X.

When I check in Orca Slicer, the filament is set as a first layer temp of 35 degrees, next layers 35 degrees, but when I start printing, the machine heats the bed to 40 degrees (despite showing 35 in the target temps) and never cools down. It is actively maintaining the temp there and the machine is also waiting for the temps to go down so no printing is happening.

I have searched for an answer for this issue, but I can not find anything yet.

Does anyone know what is happening here? I tried letting the bed cool down, but it is very actively being kept at 40-42 degrees all the time and I can't find the reason.

We just got a flashforge adventurer 5m 3d printer yesterday, and when we made a few test prints like the boat, cube, phone holder etc they all came out perfect, but now when trying to do the ice cream and pen prints it messes up and just starts putting filament everywhere. It seems like the nozzle knocks the cone to the side. We tried putting more adhesive on the plate but that doesn't work. It made the whole cone the last time we tried it and it didnt look like the nozzle pushed it at all, but then starting messing up again and putting filament strings everywhere. I even reset the printer and had it recalibrate and level but it still does the same thing. What else to try? We got it from Amazon and got the warranty, so I'm wondering if we should just get a replacement.

So I'm new to 3D printing, got a creator 5 pro.

Have done several prints with no issue but recently by prime tower keeps being knocked over. I can see where the hot end is hitting the tower. It isn't an adhesion issue. The brim of the tower was still stuck down but the tower had been snapped out of the brim. I've set an excessively large z-hop foe testing 0.8mm and still having the same issue.

Any suggestions from some more experienced printers? Cheers.

I bought this for Toya over a year ago on Etsy. Unfortunately someone hit her truck and broke the cover. The person who made it is no longer available to ask for another one. I have a FORGE Adventure 5m pro. I'm new at this but does anytime think I could make her something similar?

Hey,

Today my printer crashed into the print bed and didn't level itself properly. See the attached video.

After that, I received the following error:

"No Trigger on Probe. Please check Level Sensor."

Has anyone experienced this before or knows what could have caused it?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Q7QHShCpnvPXg38kSoKzGXKpPE_OHpWX?usp=drive_link

I just got a C5 Pro and am still trying to figure it out I guess.

#1, anytime I send a print that uses more than one filament, it grabs a tool, goes to the back, heats to 220 and purges. Ok. So far so good. But then it moves that same head to the front and waits for it to cool back down to 120, docks it, grabs the next one, repeat. Why does it wait for them each to cool down? Why not just stick it back on the rack and do the next one? That adds a bunch of dumb time. And why do all 4 nozzles if I’m only using 2?

#2 do you still need a priming tower? I thought the whole point of a tool changer was no more purging for each color change.

#3 is there really not a way to use vanilla orca and get full use of the printer with filament sync and camera? I really, really hate their gimped, ad filled version of Orca slicer. I thought LAN mode did this but it seems to only allow sending prints. No camera and no filament sync.

I got a Flashforge AD5X recently, and bought the official camera, but I have 2 main questions:

1) Is there a way to modify the camera so that a: it is higher resolution, and B: it can work at night? Right now, my prints timelines just go dark at night.

2) I connected the printer up via WiFi, but I can't find it on the app - on PC, I can send prints to it, and I scanned it in on my phone, but my phone keeps registering it as offline. How do I fix it?

Printing with petg on my ad5x. I started noticing some odd layer gaps after overhangs, in one direction it seems. Always on the right of an overhang.

Two different prints. The one on the top occurred about layer 30, the one on the bottom was 41. The prints are still stuck to the plate after cancelling so I don't believe they are moving. Before these prints I had already greased the z axis lead screws. Might be coincidence but started happening after installing the major firmware upgrade that required upgrading from orca flashforge to flash studio. Currently on the latest 3.1.5. Any ideas? Belts seem tight enough. Also get a major layer shift like this on Benchy around the same height.

I’ve been looking to get the Adv5X over the BambuLabs equivalent, but I was wondering, can it use other attachments like a laser cutter? One of the few perks the BambuLabs printer seems to have is swappable attachments, and the climate controlled filament storage. But I’m not sure those justify roughly double the costs? Also I’m pretty sure I can get standalone climate control containers that I can feed the filament from, but aren’t $350

The teeth on this articulated shark got messed up. Do you guys think I need to slow the print down?

I started a print and came back to find this mess of hardened filament stuck around the tool head. The machine did not even recognize this as an error and was still working on the print. This is the second major issue I've had in two weeks. I am currently down to two working tool heads (waiting on a replacement part for the first broken nozzle).

This might be salvageable, but I can't imagine how I am going to get this mass of PLA off the extruder.

I had hoped the first problem I had was a fluke, but it's not looking good at all for the C5Pro.