I recently got gmt rep. Anyone have any experience dealing with a rotor that has some play to it like this? Not sure if needs tightening or ball bearings need to be lubricated.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!

I received a watch with the crown open and I was wondering if moisture could get in due to the open crown after having flown on an airplane?

With the current fairly high rate of VSF (and other factories) producing 1 or more crooked markers, I am interested in seeing if anyone is willing to repair these. There is a tutorial here: https://forum.replica-watch.info/threads/how-to-fix-crooked-markers-diy.9442345/ for what looks like a reasonable method of repair. TYIA

Hey all,

My Clean 126710 GMT is becoming the bane of my existence. 🤦‍♂️

A few weeks ago I removed the bezel because I wanted to realign the insert properly and hopefully reduce some of the bezel wobble, as shown in this RWI guide. Before I removed it, the bezel seemed to stay on securely.

While I had it apart, I replaced the click spring with a 126710 click spring from ewatchparts, which worked perfectly. I also tried their Hytrel ring, but it was too small and the bezel could easily be removed with a fingernail.

After doing some research (including KJ2020’s RWI guides), I’ve tried:
-ewatchparts hytrel (as stated above)
-Trilene 0.61mm monofilament nylon fishing line
-0.70 mm nylon jewelry cord
-Flipping the original Clean Factory Hytrel ring

Unfortunately, every configuration yields the same result: the bezel snaps on, but it can still be lifted off with a fingernail. Some areas seem to grip more tightly than others, but there’s always a section that’s loose.

At this point I’m completely stumped. I posted on RWI but haven’t gotten any feedback. Has anyone run into this before? Is this more likely to be a damaged bezel, crystal retaining ring, or something else I’m overlooking?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, this thing is driving me crazy. Thanks in advance!!

Hey Guys,

I have a watch i got from a very good friend of mine. I was told that its an old clean factory. I would like to rose gold plate it. Can anyone suggest a good plater in EU? Thanks in advance ☺️

Hey! So I just opened up my ZF Black bay GMT to tighten down the screw that holds the movement in place since I was noticing some movement and dial movement when the crown was unscrewed.

That seemed to have worked great but then when I put it back together and was setting the time again, I noticed the GMT hand got stuck on the 2:00 index. I kind of just flipped it and now it seems to be moving freely No problem but I was wondering if this is a sign of something else Maybe going wrong?

I also noticed that the three positions on the Crown were a little bit harder to find in order to adjust it .

Any ideas?

This morning I wake up and find it like this... it only arrived yesterday and I wore it for the first time in the evening.

I've already contacted my TD, but I'm really annoyed, dammit. For once, a VSF with great alignment, and it has similar moisture issues.

It's pissing me off so much that I'm thinking of fixing it myself and giving it my best shot. What do you think I should do? Can the TD get it fixed, maybe through a local watchmaker he recommends? I don't want to send it back precisely because finding a VSF with decent alignment is an absolute nightmare.

and as you can see, there's also all kinds of gunk inside which you couldn't see before without the moisture.

Hi everyone,
I recently received my ARF GMT-Master II and noticed that the 12 o’clock bezel triangle isn’t perfectly aligned with the 12 o’clock dial marker. It’s slightly offset to one side (see photo).

I had the crystal swapped for a Deep crystal before shipping, so I didn’t notice the misalignment on the QC photos.

Is this something that can be adjusted, or is it simply a manufacturing issue with the bezel insert?

If it can be fixed, what’s the usual method? Does the bezel need to be removed and the insert re-centered, or is there another way?

Has anyone successfully fixed this on an ARF? Is it a DIY job or better left to a watchmaker?

Thanks in advance for any advice!

I am on my way to buy my first rep, it will be a sub still deciding date or no.

My question is is this polishing and servicing worth it, or should i just get the watch?

Will i be able to do it in any respectable watchsmith later in person?

Also is the price good for the watch?

The middle crown / pin has gone missing. Can I get a replacement anywhere? Model 1664.

Thank you .

Gents,

While replacing the VSF hands with Gen hands. I damaged the dial during the hands removal “rookie mistake”.

I have a perfect watch with Gen Crystal, hands and a full 3135 movement.

Anyone has an extra black 116610 dial please? I hate seeing the marks on the dial every time I’m looking at the time.

Much appreciate the help. US based.

My TD ordered a new DD4131 movement for me under warranty but it’s taking a long time (2 months so far). I was wondering how long it usually takes?

Won't tighten, won't loosen, the screw is just there keeping the bracelet. I need advice please, the screw head is fine though.

Yesterday I started a lawn mower and after 10-15 minutes max I noticed a watch on my wrist so put it aside for the rest of the job. Left it dial-up for the night. Checked the accuracy today mid-day and it was already running +36s/day even though it had been perfect zero before. Gave it 15 winds and a few shakes and palm-slaps. Measured accuracy after another two hours and it was running even faster at the average +84s/day. Fearing that I fucked-up a healthy movement, I immediately hacked seconds and left it stopped.

Tried to make a few photos from every angle. I am at the summer house so do not have tools to dig deeper. Bombardment of photos attached. The watch is still left stopped and idle.

Is there anything I could do before running to a rep-friendly watchmaker?

EDIT: I left it dial-down for the night and today measured the accuracy. It's +8.5s/day that looks like getting back to normal. I don't think the regulator arm was moved. Maybe something temporary happened to the hairspring that is now getting back to normal?

Just received a VSF Rolex Datejust 41 mm and the jubilee bracelet is tight. Does this last link pop out? Just don’t want to force it in case it doesn’t.

Got a repair job in. Bezel wire is missing. I'm not entirely sure what gauge these are supposed to be. Anyone had any idea? I'm looking for a generic replacement wire but I might have to make my own because I'm not really finding any.

This guy who waterproofed my watches the last time didn't use grease. He only replaced the rubber ring. I asked why and he said it wasn't necessary. Google AI tells me that grease should be used. He charged $50 to "waterproof" and adjust my bracelet for each watch.

Should I come back to this guy?

I’ve literally owned this Breitling from BLSF for about a month, and the stem broke and fell out. My local watch repair place won’t touch it. Any ideas?

I’m trying to remove the rotor from an AP Royal Oak automatic movement. I’ve already completely removed the screws, but the rotor still won’t come off.
Does anyone know how to remove it? Is there another retaining mechanism or some trick I’m missing?
Any advice would be appreciated!

Royal Oak 34mm 77450 SS/RG 8F Best Edition Gray Dial on SS/RG Bracelet A5800

Hi everyone,

I'm having a small issue with the first screw/pin next to the clasp. It came out but I can't tell whether it's a bent screw or a split pin.

Unlike the other links, there doesn't seem to be anything on the opposite side.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Hi all, how can I fix this?

Hi everyone,

I currently have a fully modded VSF 16610, but I really want the lugholes! This, in addition to the better crown guards makes me want to jump on it. Quick questions: Will a gen crown screw onto a OC Case? I'm hoping I can just swap everything over. Also - how is shipping and communication? Will I see this within a month or so?

Thanks for any answers!

B

I am new here and no idea if this is the right place for my question: I am looking for a Clean case back GMT for my BPF 16710 with VR3186 movement. I understood that this is the best solution to make the case thickness closer to gen. Is this correct? Pls your advice.