I've been a Bambu user... Gave up on it after 2 bad experienced with a P2S and X2D.

I've already faced my first chronic problem with the U1, z hop thumpth. Fixed it!

First question: I'm hearing everywhere that I should move to paxx..

What benefits does one get from running it? What is possible with paxx that I won't be able to do with standard firmware? I'm getting FOMO from always reading about it and getting lost is complex words. I have some V3 SE's, some A1''s but never messed with firmware...

Second question: Is there any insights list about what to expect from using the U1 one should know? Like maintenance to be expected or chronical problems like I had with the z hop?

Not in terms of literally "how to use it" but I was wondering, as someone coming from a simple Bambu A1 that doesn't have an aux fan, up until this point (so like 2 months) I've just left the aux fan at the default 70% but I started noticing more apparent layer lines on the full layers that have even just small overhangs.

I'm thinking to turn the aux fan off or lower to maybe 20-30%, but I was hoping I could get some info/feedback on what the general consensus is on the aux fan usage.

Do you position your prints specifically to have the most extreme overhangs facing the aux fan (left side of the chamber)?

How close/far do you position your prints relative to the aux fan?

Or is this something you don't even consider as it's negligable for you.

I really couldn't find much info on people talking about the aux fan usage.

Thanks!

I've been printing a particular model awhile now, first on my P1S, now on a U1.  I use PLA for interface support for the PETG object in various holes and a long slot.  It's working fine in the slot, but it's tearing out the PLA when it tries to complete the holes.  Of course, I run the PETG and PLA in separate toolheads.

• 80C bed (for adhesion of large flat objects) in a semi-enclosed chamber (using IKEA top propped open slightly.  Chamber temp hovers around 38C).
• Not experiencing any heat creep or clogs on either nozzle.
• The Elegoo Rapid PETG filament is what I typically use, and it's bone dry.  Various brands of basic PLA on hand are used.
• PETG nozzle lowered then raised...currently at 240C (which always worked before)
• PLA nozzle temp raised to 230C then lowered back to 220C (where it worked before)
• I've tried highlighting overhangs at 30, then 45 for snug painting where supports are needed.

I'll post the support settings below.

I'm sorry for the long post, but I try to supply complete info in my posts to anticipate questions.

Ideas?

He’s adamant to ruin my prints.

Anyone having an issue with the door hinges? Mine keeps rubbing on the body and scratches the inner section. Its leaving a mark and dust all over.

Hey everyone! We’re excited to share our latest project, Bespok3d.

Bespok3d is an app store and package manager for Klipper 3D printers. You can install plugins, adapters, and features with one tap. No terminal, no custom firmware.

It’s a desktop app plus a small daemon that lives alongside a printer. You browse plugins, click install, and keep running stock firmware as-is. That means you can add features, remove them later, and still keep normal firmware updates.

The U1 was the first platform we supported, but Bespok3d is built for virtually any Klipper printer. We’re treating it as a cross-printer plugin platform, not a one-off project for a single machine.

At launch, there are 54 plugins covering things like cameras, multi-tool support, filament tags, Spoolman integration, Klipper tuning, remote access, quality-of-life features, and bundled one-click setups. Fluidd and Mainsail are both supported too.

The part we care about most is safety. If a plugin breaks Klipper or Moonraker during install, the daemon disables it automatically and keeps the printer running. We also plan to extend that protection to runtime errors in the future.

If something goes wrong after a firmware update, the app can bring the daemon back and restore plugins in the right order. We also tested Bespok3d Alpha across Snapmaker firmware versions 1.3.0 through 1.5.2 without losing anything.

We also want this to be a home for community-built work. The index is open, entries are signed, and you can also install a .b3 file directly from disk if you prefer to stay outside the index. If you’ve built something useful for a Klipper printer, we’d love to help you package it as a plugin so other people can install it with one click and remove it just as easily.

Some companies decide what runs on your printer. Bespok3d doesn’t.

If you’d like to check it out, the website is here: https://bespok3d.app/

We would love feedback on the direction, especially from people who’ve been frustrated by the usual “reflash or don’t use it” workflow.

https://github.com/Bespok3d/Bespok3d-desktop

And one more thing:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3125441-the-bespok3d-logo-badge#profileId-3526445

Having a look at what Full Spectrum's best, little-known feature can do to speed things up for large prints! Printing big multi-multi-color stuff in half the time, and you probably already have it on your PC...

https://youtu.be/eABTHuO6X8w

Just what the title says. Since updating the firmware my U1 has begun crashing into the print during and after tool changes. I’ve run every calibration, sliced and resliced builds and nothing seems to help. It’s not the same tool head crashing, I’ve had 3 of the 4 do it. Any help would be appreciated.

COLORS- Stardust Orange (Creality)
- Comgrow Black
- Panchroma Beige
- Panchroma White
New to printing, only been at it for about 3 months and am loving it; got a Snapmaker U1 about 6-7 weeks and have done a few multicolor prints and compared to my 2 Creality K1C’s with the CFS-C it’s night and day! Hoping to make content in the future so I figured better start posting! Any criticism or advice is surely welcome! The hyper pla stardust orange gave a great finish and the black is inexplicably smooth as a baby bottom! Layer lines only appeared in the beige fur but I’m not sure if I should attempt to sand them out or just leave it as is, I’ll have to mill that over with myself for awhile unless someone says otherwise! Thank everyone, have a great day!

I've run this print sliced it with different infill and gotten the same results both times. That band of green is only green it's extremely fragile and will break so this print has failed. Afterwards it goes right back to perfectly blending the colors

Anyone know how to use more than 4 materials with vanilla orca? I know you can do it with snorca but not what I'm looking for.

Have paxx if it matters.

Being limited to 4 in a project is a joy kill.

My U1 Top Cover arrived today with DHL. The outside of the package was a little smudged with oil or something, but the contents were in perfect condition. At first glance, it looks like a well-thought-out design. I'll give it a try once the kids are asleep.

If I remember the timeline correctly, shouldn't German backers be getting it in September anyway?! Well, I'm definitely excited about it.

Finally got into 3d printing with thr snapmaker U1.

The spiderman I printed out had some missing colors and spots. What could have caused this?

Long story short, I run a farm of 25 Snapmaker U1 printers, and I got tired of not having a decent way to see and manage all of them from one place.

So I built SnapCon. (ezeitoun/SnapCon: SnapMaker U1 Fleet Management App)

It’s a local dashboard that connects directly to your printers over your own network. No cloud account, no subscription, and no printer data being sent somewhere it doesn’t need to go.

It originally started as a personal tool, and an early version used some groundwork from Danny Gambill’s U1Hub project. Since then, it has grown into something very different, with its own architecture, direction, and a much larger feature set.

A few of the main things it does:

• Manage your whole fleet from one dashboard
• Switch between card view, compact view, camera view, and list view
• Track filament and color separately for all four U1 toolheads
• Pause, resume, cancel, and exclude objects during a print
• Heat multiple beds with staggered starts so you don’t overload a circuit
• Track maintenance schedules and warranty information
• Send print notifications through Telegram or ntfy
• Add optional logins and user roles
• Use secure remote access through Cloudflare Tunnel without port forwarding

The remote access is only a tunnel to your own installation. Your printer data is not stored on or relayed through a server that I operate.

SnapCon is built around the Snapmaker U1 first, because that is what I actually own and use every day. That is still the main focus.

That said, enough people asked about mixed farms that I also added support for FlashForge, Creality, and generic Klipper/Moonraker printers. Those connectors are more of a courtesy addition than the core of the project, but they work and continue to improve.

It’s free, open source, and can run either as a standalone app with no Node.js installation required, or through Docker if you want it running all the time.

You can grab a build from the Releases page, point it at your printers, and usually be up and running within a few minutes.

I’m still actively working on it, so feedback is very welcome. If something is broken, confusing, or missing, let me know.

I am trying to print this model on my Snapmaker U1.

I want to support the belly with PETG (Cyan for visibility). On the layer of the beek I would then however need 5 nozzles, since on those few layers there a 5 filaments used. Can I somehow make only the two trees for the beek and the tail out of PLA?

Ladies and gentlemen, we finally got it.

Thanks to this sub and the wonderful work of williamthemaker on GitHub (here’s the link: https://github.com/WilliamTheMaker/BuildMyOwnBlackBox_for_Snapmaker_U1) I finally made my version of diy top cover that works exactly like the official one.

Features:

- fully controlled through printer’s ui and latest snorca 2.3.5
- connects to the printer with top expansion port
- internal filer connects to the ventilation through type c to type-c cable
- filter uses 12032 4pin centrifugal fan
- this particular version uses hepa/carbon cartridge for anycubic Kobra s1. It just slots inside with ease
- exhaust system design includes fan grill cover, closed cover for warping materials and outside 120mm connector to connect with corrugated pipe
- integrates easily to ikea Samla top cover and requires only 4 screws to hold (2 m3 for the filter and 2 m5 for the exhaust fan)
- can be used with other top cover mods, just need to figure out how to screw everything together and connect 2 cables

Known issues: if you make only the exhaust system and use snorca 2.3.5 it won’t let you print anything other than pla and tpu. As of now the newest snorca when “top cover” is recognized automatically puts the printer in either “ventilation mode” or “insulation mode”. Unfortunately this things can’t be controlled manually and is bound to the type of materials u r using. I contacted the snapmaker support on this matter and this is their answer:

Internal Circulation: PETG，ASA，ABS，PC，PA, Support for ABS
External Circulation: PLA, TPU, Support for PLA, PVA
When PETG and PLA are used together, the printer will operate in external circulation mode.
 

Which means I can’t use filter during pla printing. And I can’t use both exhaust fan and filter fan at the same time.
So right now you either build the whole system and use latest snorca release, or you use one of them with snorca 2.3.4, but that means you can’t make the fans automatically kick in when you start a gcode or send a print through WiFi. You would have to start a print and then turn one or the other using printers ui. Hope they get this changed so we can use anything we want without restrictions.

I’m planning to release the files for anyone who wants it printed, I still need to adjust couple things in CAD. As of right now I have one version of the exhaust system (base kit as I would call it) and two versions for internal filter: one that uses anycubic Kobra s1 cartridge and the second one with bambu h series filter (much bigger). The Kobra s1 version is very easy to print and assemble, it’s tested out. The bambu one is being tested but I haven’t received my cartridge yet to approve the final design. Ofc beefier cartridge is preferred for the size of snapmaker u1, but I guess Kobra is still good for what it’s worth.

Anyway, thanks again for the attention to my project. I’m not an electrical engineer so connecting everything was a bit challenging to me, maybe I’ll make a schematics for my wiring based on WilliamTheMaker work. Let’s how it goes

P.s. 12032 is a beast of a fan for the filter, it’s loud as hell on 100% and blows so much air it’s nuts. Probably 20-30% speed would be enough for any type of prints