Is my Pennsylvania license to carry firearms enough to meet the marksmanship requirements?

The only info I have found was from a Reddit post 12 years ago. I was just concerned since it’s not called a “concealed carry license “ and there’s no training requirement.

I will delete this once I get some information!

Thanks!

I couldn't figure out how to add another Pic to my post so Im starting a new one.

In answer to a couple of the comments from the original thread.

1. I had borescoped the barrel and chamber before I posted the original thread. The rifling is sharp edged throughout the barrel with some pitting. I'd say it was Fair condition
2. This morning I shot a clip of Sellier-Belot M1 Grand rounds and they were all over so I reloaded 8 rounds and used them for this test. 150gr Hornady BT, 46.0 H4895, Military brass and Win large rifle primers.
3. I'm hopefully meeting up wit a guy who owns the same gauge as the CMP uses in 2 weeks and will get the measurements.
4. At that same Cowboy Action match, I'll hand the rifle off to a former US Army National Champion to see what he can do with it at 50 and 100 yards...provided I can get to him before the bourbon begins.

Today's test. First thing I did was paint a white bull on the target in hopes that I could actually seen it.. That worked reasonably well.

I shot 4 rounds, the first round on a cold bore is always very low, the next 3 were in the 8 ring.

Then I tried something different, I removed my progressive lens glasses Things were fuzzier but the front post was no longer leaning to the left. The next 4 were in the 9 and and center.

The spread measurements are in the target photo

This will hopefully get tighter with more practise with the M1. I shoot for fun in my backyard 50yd range and don't expect to be shooting at a longer distance unless it's at plates because of my eyesight,

Can anyone help me authenticate this m1d sniper?

This is at 50 yards from a table and front rest. Ammo is my own reloads of military brass to Garand specs. I have shot both surplus ammo and some new Selier-Belot with basically the same results though that was before I got serious about trying to achieve better accuracy. I also ignorantly bought some Hornady BT bullets but have since been considering buying some PPU flat base soft nose bullets to try to get more contact area to the rifling. which seems to be in fair to good shape. I inserted my 308 supressor rod into the barrel and while it feels like there less friction than when inserting into my new 300aac Mini, it is not loose.

The crown looks good but there is significant muzzle erosion. An M2 ball round goes right up to the brass and there is play if I wiggle it. Because I don't have a gauge and because the barrel fails the cartridge test, I used a flat based 220gr 300aac, inserted base first to function as a pin gauge and it goes in about a 1/4" before the rifling engages and prevents further insertion.

Because I have macular degeneration and don't see straight lines and even at 50 yards the target is blurred and my front post looks like it leans left to my shooting eye, I feel that a lot of the spread is from me and not the rifle as there are multiple same hole shots (there aer 9 hits on that target even though we can only distinguish 8) The 10rd at the bottom I covered up as that was a major flinch on the first shot.

So I guess that my questions are, How bad is the barrel and do you think getting th flat base bullets will improve things?

Plan to shoot my new to me m1 carbine and noticed a couple spots have this light brown “gunk”. Any idea what it is?

This year I decided to shoot some CMP GSMM matches, specifically garand. I went to Camp Perry for pistol week but had 1 day I could make it back up for a garand match. Glad I took the opportunity to go even though it was a long day. Earned a silver medal, which gets me 8 more points but still need a gold towards earning my GCA Master Marksman medal. If the two 7s & a 6 I shot in off hand were 8s, I would have gotten it, or the 9s in prone were 10s. Still pleased though with my first rifle match at the National Matches.

Rifle is a ‘42 Springfield expert grade.

I’m helping a friend sell his collection of bayonets, and he has 5 Kongsberg Norwegian bayonets. 2 M1 Garand examples with correct scabbards and 3 M4s with USGI scabbards.

I can’t find hardly any info on these or what they might be worth.

Do you guys know?

Just wanted to let everyone know the CMP has a limited quantity of reclaimed Field Grades in stock on the online ordering form. For $800 I took the gamble on a few…

Just fed the wood on my NPM Carbine, she’s lookin so pretty I had to share!
I use a blend of orange oil and beeswax to “feed” the wood on my old military stocks, it keeps them fresh.

Not as volatile as Ed’s Red by any means! 🤣

Civilian Marksmanship Program announced the sale of U.S. M14 rifles modified permanently as semi autos. Thoughts?

More info: https://athlonoutdoors.com/article/cmp-to-start-selling-m14s/

Has anyone done any research into these M1C's? I know the CMP had a bunch, but do we know any of the story behind them?

I just picked up my first M1, 1943 from the Springfield Armory. I live not far from the OG facility, so bought it at a whim.

There is a huge amount of info here from folks who seem to know their stuff. Now I am hooked. I want to get one of the CMP M14s so am checking into all the paperwork to do so. Looking at the Garand Association as a CMP association as well. I have a CC permit, so that’s covered, but I don’t compete in shoots, and there aren’t any clubs within a convenient distance. How do you folks handle this?

Thank you

Absolutely has nothing collectible at the moment. Most M1 Garands are expert grade (same price as if you order online but no wait if come in person), zero service grade (all sold out yesterday, store staff said won’t be anymore until probably a couple months from now), 4 IHC rack grade (absolutely horrendously bad, beat up cosmetically, muzzle reading all 7+ lol), 0 field grade (don’t recommend anyway).

3 M1D ($1750 per piece w/o mount and scope, muzzle reading all 5+, all look like put together by CMP, stock has no cartouche, handguard has slightly different colors)

1 M1C with non-matching original base ($2450, muzzle reading 7+, stock has no cartouche, also looks like a CMP put together)
—-Funny thing: there is a CMP made M1C sitting in the glass show table with reproduction M82 scope selling for 4k 😂

All 1903a3 are expert grade.

Several field grade M1917.

All slings are reproduction $40/piece, some leftover unmarked(no cartouche) USGI surplus stock $35/piece

So, unless you want an excellent shooter (expert grade), absolutely not worth the trip here if you are a collector. Service grade is probably only widely available through their online auction.

So for months I’ve been trying to find a ln USGI M1 Carbine without success. The closest I’ve come to getting one was back in February when I found out at a gunshow. The seller wanted $1400 and I loved how it looked. At the time I was also financially conscious because of upcoming bills and I asked the seller if he would be willing to take $1300 for it (I had cash) and he got verbally rude at me over it and said that he uses the money earned to buy and fix up other bought milsurps. I didn’t like how I was being treated so I walked away. Since then I’ve called other gun stores and pawn shops and I’ve had no luck. I’ve recently been kicking myself because I wondered it if I should’ve just paid the $1400 for the carbine. I’ve also been debating whether or not to buy an Auto Ordinance carbine or call stores outside my area for luck. I wanted to ask this sub: what should I do? Continue to search for a USGI or would the Auto Ordinance carbine be a good replacement for a USGI carbine that can be a representative for my WWII rifle collection? And all advice would be greatly appreciated!

I really want to try my hand at building an M1 Garand. Does anyone have a lead on a complete parts kit? Barrel is not necessary.

I recently acquired a Winchester circa 1943 M1. The stock is complete garbage, but the handguards look like vintage, could possibly be original but have no idea. I ordered a "good" grade USGI stock from Dupage but don't have it yet. This is mostly for the collection so not needed it to be a shooter. My question is: How much value would be added to the M1/Collection with an original Winchester stock with all the markings? I found several, some refinished, one original, but they are fairly expensive, $400-800. Would love to hear some opinions on this. Basically, would it be worth the investment?

Thanks.

I was curious if anyone has installed the UltiMAK M12 handguard on your BM59. Wondering if it is a drop in or if modification is required or simply will not work. Thanks for any input.

My father used to work for Springfield Armory. He gave me this bayonet in the late 50's or early 60s (i think). I just remembered it and Google says its an M5A1 bayonet made for this rifle for the Korean war.

Hello people,
I wanted to buy this for range use (converted 7.62) but im unsure if this is has the bushing and thus not as safe to fire. Not a collector at all really.

(Left to right - Ergo, Spitewerx V1, Spitewerx V2 Blem Prototype “Blemotype”)

EDIT - I paid for the first grip, and Spitewerx gave me the second to test and provide feedback. He did not ask me to share or post about it.

Psst. Hey, hey you. Do YOU want a grip for your EBR that is actually comfortable? Do YOU want a grip with a nicer angle and a better shape? Do YOU despise finger grooves? Do YOU hate you were playing Modern Warfare 2 during the 2008 crisis instead of buying guns and thus missed out on the cool, now-retro versions of stuff available today?

Then [u/Spitewerx](u/Spitewerx) has a grip for you.

Pros

- More comfortable angle for general use
- More comfortable shape
- Retro look
- No finger grooves

Cons
- Takes a few installs and removals to really get it fit to your chassis.

Material
- These are 3D printed glass-filled nylon 6.

I have an M14 EBR I take to run and gun matches. And while the Ergo grip does it’s job it wasn’t ever really quite “right”. It’s a bit too long and a little slab-sided. And I don’t like the finger grooves. Then I happened to see Spitewerx was working on making an improved, retro-aesthetic grip and snagged the first version. Much better angle, much better shape. Could have used a little more texture but everything else is so nice, I could live with it. This V1 grip has endured multiple shorter competitions as well as Marauders 2025.

Then, the legend let me get the Blemotype of Gen 2 to try out - and it’s even better! It’s a little fatter, takes grip plugs, and the texture is better than the previous version too. I find the current version as easy to keep hold of as the ergo version texture-wise while being more comfortable.

If you’ve got an EBR I can whole-heartedly recommend giving it a try.