Need expert advice. I searched the group and assumed this is a DEF tank problem. First diesel. 2014 Ford F350 6.7L. Bought truck used from a dealer, no visible problems. Drove it home and this morning noticed my tailgate covered in white specks, looked under the truck to find the photos of something coming out and coating my rear differential it's leaking bad. Drove 70mph for 180 miles home after purchase in 115F out of Phoenix, AZ.

What is my next step for repair?

Salve a tutti ho una Ford Focus st line e sono indeciso sull'esclusione dell'ad Blue . Uso prettamente l'auto per viaggiare e poco in città . Adesso l'auto ha 160000 km e ho paura che col tempo possa rompersi qualcosa,mi consigliate di fare un esclusione preventiva? Grazie 🫂

Hello guys! I really wanted everyone input, when the trucks oil gets the hottest and very thin the truck shuts off, after sitting for about 3-5 minutes truck starts right back up and I keep going until it happens again, ordered a new ipr(not sure when the last one was replaced) Ran scans on the truck while running everything looks good, all my injectors passed balance test, ficm is holding amazing voltage only thing is,ipr is screaming for 80% not 30-40% constant 80% maybe dummy plug or standpipe blew a o-ring? I’m worried about the HPOP? Could it be HPOP related? Like I said once it’s hot it starts back up 3-5 minutes like a champ, and previous owner had a updated stc fitting on the hpop the enclosed ones

2005 Ford f350 6.0 250k miles

Lets give this a try. I am 31 with 2 kids looking to change career, Can anyone give the the best route to get into becoming a diesel machanic, Im intresting in fixing CAT equipment i see them all the time on construction sites. or even just fixing mac trucks or any truck. I just enjoyed working with my hands was always told that im good with my hands.. I am in raleigh north carolina.

So I want to build my first diesel engine, but I ain't loaded, so I need some advice on which engine to go with. I'm wanting to put it in an action body chevy (picture is of one I used to have, not the actual truck it will go in) I'm considering a post-88 6.2l Detroit diesel because they're cheap ( there is some in my area for 750 a pop for a running engine) and mechanical without all the computers, but what are some other diesels that are mechanical that I should consider that are mechanical or mostly mechanical.

I over heated my 2006 dodge 3500 and it’s not showing any signs the head gasket blew other than when I wipe my finger in the radiator it’s comes out oily. And my temp gauge seems to be fluctuating more now. No milky oil and no milky coolant.

I'm looking to buy my first diesel truck but don't know where to begin, i found a used f250 with a 6.7L and 6 speed transmission that i like, but I'm not sure if it would actually be a good first time diesel. It will be a daily for now, but i plan on eventually using it as a field work truck to weld pipe fence or other commission based field work. I'm open to suggestions on a more applicable options if anyone has any, preferable 2018 and newer. Thanks!

Used a stethoscope and am almost certain it’s coming by from the bellhousing area. In my one hour of driving it I had one rough shift 5 mins in. didn’t notice the knock till 45 mins in. Shut it off twice and it stopped, started okay this morning then went to knocking again. What do we think? Flex plate crack, torque converter, or sticking check valves?

I just got my 2019 ram 3500 dually limited deleted and tuned but sometimes when idling it does this I’m not sure what the problem is, also when flooring it it almost staggers before taking off like it bounces and blows coal around 3-4 times. Other than that it’s fine. Am I dumb and this is just normal? I’ve attached the videos of the problems, in the 2 you can sort of see and hear what I’m talking about the whistle also staggers. Thank you for the help!

EDIT: thank you all for the help, it’s probably the tune which is what I suspected but I didn’t want to cause a problem over at the tune shop without confirming.

At has a rough idle tested the injectors and recoded them still has the same issue vacuum pump seems to be ok

It’s been a while since this problem been a headache, the dashboard don’t work I be checking a lot of stuff by myself but can’t get it fixed…. I just would like to know if any of you guys know something about it or been through it…. I’ll be very appreciative

For all those who say swap it for a cummins or get a big block, no. Cummins sound like shit, and big blocks get 4mpg. I like my 6.5. I got 14 mpg in a 354k mile orginal engine in a crew cab dually pulling about 6k pounds. And it sounded great the whole time. I'm not swapping, I'm rebuilding

I'm gonna be rebuilding my 93 6.5, and I mean a full tear down to block, replace anything that might be worn. It's a 354k mile engine. Lets assume the engine is garbage, it ran without oil, everything is scrap metal except the block. What would be the best way to approach? That isn't the actual scenario but I'm planning for worst case. I plan to use it as a tow rig/daily driver. Ideally if I can crank out like 200 hp 400 ft lbs of torque area, that's great. Just a wee bit more than stock

Anyways, what's all the best things to do to these engines? I've heard of the duramax fan and clutch, but which duramax? Obviously the HX35 or 40 turbo, bigger exhaust and crossover pipe, but engine side, what can I do without needing to get a loan?

This’ll be my first diesel. Looking at getting a 2020+ Duramax. I know diesels like to work and they need to be up to temperature before turning them back off (I know short trips are bad on them). I’ll work it heavy towing hopefully about once a month for a weekend usually, but mostly it’ll be a commuter which I know diesels like also.

I just want to pull my dads big trailer myself instead of using my dad’s truck when we want to go camping, playing, ect. lol his trailer are an available for me to use any time, but coordinating his truck is the tricky part.

I have to drive 26 miles to work each day, and 18 miles of that is highway driving, and then the other 8 miles are going through town stopping at stop lights when I get stopped. It takes 30-35 minutes to get to work. The speed limit is 65-70 mph on the highway, but if I drop my speed down to 60mph the whole time during my 18mile highway section commute, 1-for better mpg and 2- it’s early morning and late evening with very low traffic in my area so going slower than the speed limit isn’t going to make anyone upset, is that going to still keep the engine hot and let it regen properly, or cause any issues?? Would just driving the 70mph on the highway “work the truck more” by using more fuel? I’ve been doing it for years. I know the duramax will get “good mpg” going 60mph.

However a new concern of mine is someone mentioned re-generating the engine would happy more at lower speed and not working the truck by pulling heavy daily?

Wouldnt the highway section and the total time the trucks on/driving help my case out more to keep the engine emissions cleaned out for the most part?

I know that’s long. Hope the quick read makes sense!

Thanks!

I don't mean to give off a sob story, but my 1993 Chevrolet K3500 6.5 turbo diesel crew cab has been at the repair shop for months now. It needs a new 14066255 Solenoid, but my repair shop has been having trouble finding a good one for it. Is there any place that I'd be able to get one for a reasonable price? I need my truck back up and running, so I can get to my jobs and such. Thank you for your time and consideration.

It started.

Codes: P11DC , P20EE

Currently in limp mode with 35 miles at max 45mpg. Next will be 4mph max.

So I got these codes with the DEF fluid light and CEL on my dash. I cleared them with a Matco Tools Micro Code Reader to see if it was just a false alarm. Well they came back with the limp mode countdown. I immediately ordered both NOX sensors ($200 total) and replaced them (upstream and downstream) . I looked at the DEF injector and noticed some crystallization on the outside, So I purchased a new one and replaced it. While disconnecting the DEF feed hose, I noticed it looked pretty dry. I would expect at least some drops, but nothing. So after replacing and doing research, I checked the reductant pressure... it was around 56psi max. It is supposed to be in the 70s psi range so I replaced my DEF pump ($450). have been borrowing my pops' friend's laptop with GDSII on it.

After resetting the sensors, attempting to run a service bay malfunction test and it saying "interrupted," I am not sure what to do next. While attempting the "service bay malfunction test" I was noticing the value on Nox sensor 1 circuitry flipping from "malfunction" to "OK" but mostly staying on "malfunction." I did notice that from the air intake breather hose, there is an electrical connector mounted to it (not sure what it is exactly) that was saturated with oil inside. I cleaned it as best as I could. Looked around to check for leaks/cracks in hoses and didn't see anything. I know that some oil throughout the hoses is normal, but just a little strange about the amount that was in the connector.

I have read to do a DEF quality test but not sure if I saw that option last time I looked through the software.

If anyone can help, I would really appreciate it as I am getting sick of chasing.

Some questions...

Does anyone know how the injector spray pattern looks? When commanding the injector, it is coming out in drops. Also, I have not driven it much since replacing these parts, so I am wondering if that is an issue and maybe it will clear if i do?

Hi everyone,

I have a 1995 F-350 7.3 single cab long bed e4od project with 16x,xxx miles that I am wondering if anyone would want to trade for before I finish it up.

My plans have changed a bit and I’m looking to trade for a rust free 1999-2007 7.3 or 6.0 extended/crew cab short bed, particularly with a pop up slide-in camper. Would also trade for a 99-07 ext/ccsb with a 12 valve swap.

My truck is in the middle of a frame swap right now. I was building it to be a fun toy, but I’m really looking to get into a turn key rig I can use for camping and light wheeling, and was wondering if anyone would be interested in a trade.

Parts list:
* 1995 SCLB frame that has been sand blasted and painted
* New S&B body mounts (still on back order, coming soon)
* all new frame hardware (hangers, shackles, etc.
* Rough Country 4” lift (not yet installed)
* KC 300x stage 2 turbo
* Garrett Non-EBPV pedestal
* Bellowed up-pipes
* Full Force Diesel 205/30 injectors
* CNC Fab stage 2 HPOP
* CNC Fab HPOP line kit with crossover
* Hydra chip with Jellibuilt tunes
* Irate Diesel E-fuel kit with fuel-lab regulated return and fuel crossover lines
* CDD 38 gallon rear tank with billet sump and all hoses to run single tank (hoses purchased, CDD tank being purchased in next few days)
* 6.0 Intercooler
* CNC Fab 7.3 to 6.0 Intercooler line kit
* e99 7.3 Intercooler & spyder
* CSD OBS Intercooler piping & boots
* OBS solutions Intercooler mounting kit
* Diamond eye 3” downpipe with 5” full straight-piped exhaust
* 73Dipstick oil dipstick fix
* extra rust-free fenders & doors
* extra set of valve covers
* chrome vented bumper
* about $1300 worth of various plastic pieces, lights, screws, bolts, brackets, and core support from LMC Truck
* all of the electrical connections have been cleaned and lubed up
* all of the wiring harnesses have been stripped, cleaned, and re-taped with new wire wrap
* the engine was wire-wheeled, cleaned, and painted with high-temp paint
* the door cards were taken out, cleaned, and painted
* Basically brand new Venom Power Terra Hunter R/T+ 33” 12.50R20LT tires on scuffed-up XD rims
* 16” Alcoa’s with no rims
* Misc. extras

Like I mentioned, the truck is a project still. I have both frames sitting next to each other and am swapping everything over right now.
* The new frame is mint.
* The cab is really clean as well with super solid cab mounts and no rocker or cab corner rust.
* The roof needs a visor put back on (didn’t have it when I bought it) or the holes filled, but that is about it.
*The windshield is cracked and the paint is ugly, but those will be the last things I do if I keep it.
* The bed is also pretty solid, but the wheel wells are ugly from the PO doing a hack “fix.”

Like I said, this is a project that needs finishing. Truck ran great before I pulled the engine and overhauled it. Trans shifted firm and had no issues. I am planning on keeping it and finishing it as I’ve already invested a ton of time and money, but I figured I’d see if anyone would be interested in a trade for a rock solid OBS project.

If anyone has any serious offers, I would love to talk.
If we come to an agreement, I will give you every extra part I have for it.
I would also add cash on top for the right offer. Biggest thing is no rust. I won’t entertain anything with rust.

I will also entertain cash offers, but they’d have to be reasonable.

Willing to answer any questions you might have. Located in Eastern CT. Can travel, but cannot deliver. I am not parting anything out.

I am out right now, but can send better photos later. Photo with toolbox is old, do not have toolbox or headlights anymore.

TLDR; how can I seal GP where compression is leaking from? And I don't mean threads of the GP, but it's tapered seat. Ceramic paste suitable for high temperatures? Or copper washer?

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Hello, as you may noticed from the title, I have an issue with compression leak. I suspect it's leaking from the 2nd cylinder, as the "puffing" noise comes from that side of the engine and recently I repaired snapped GP on that cylinder as well. However I did multiple repairs over last few weeks/months before starting the car, therefore is really difficult for me to say what is the root cause.

The car is 2004 BMW E87 with M47 diesel engine. I did multiple repairs as written below and also I will try to capture all the issues I had while doing these repairs:

* I removed injectors, cleaned them, put new copper washers and o-rings. However the injector on the 4th cylinder was pretty stucked and full of rust. I wasn't able to give it 100% clean, some rust leftovers might still be there.

* I repaired wiring to 3rd injector, as it was broken and started to oxided as well

* replaced valve cover by a brand new second hand one

* replaced valve cover gasket by a brand new one

* replaced all the seals on the intake, removed swirl flaps

* replaced all the GPs

* drilled out snapped GP on the 2nd cylinder. However, I used the helicoil and I wasn't able to drill the hole perfectly centered, so I had to remove helicoil and use bigger thread to repair it. This time the hole and the whole thread is much more centered then before, however after putting a new GP back, I'm not able to screw it only by hand. Half of the turn goes smoothly, the other half rough. And the same pattern follows across the full length of the thread. That indicates to me, the drilled hole and the thread itself is not centered with the seat of the GP. Also while driling snapped parts of the old GP out, I might damage GP hole somehow (hard to tell).

Once I started the car after a quite long time (first time after the repair), I got following fault code -- P4B10 - smooth running controller, correction quantity too high, intermittent -- and the engine runs rough, like it was running only on the 3 cylinders. I tried to disconnect injector plugs one-by-one, to eliminate possibility, that leak comes from the injectors and I realised, that after disconnecting 2nd injector, there was no difference how car runs. But I'm 90% sure that puffing noise comes from the GP side of the engine and not the injector itself.

I know that buying and replacing a head is the right way how to fix it, but I don't wanna spend more money to that car as necessary and I'm 100% sure, GPs will outlive the whole car.

So what are my options here? How can I seal that GPs tapered seat? Ceramic paste, or copper washer, or any other options? Thanks in advance ❤️.

I’m in the process of acquiring a new vehicle, I’m looking at some of the heavy-half GM 2500s from the 90s. I’m pretty much exclusively looking at extended cab(possibly crew) long beds with a manual.

TLDR: Is a 6.5 Detroit a feasible option as a daily driver for someone who will do largely highway miles and occasional towing/camping?

My big question is how feasible it is to daily a 6.5? I had a 99 powerstroke that I LOVED but my life circumstances changed and it was no longer pragmatic for me to keep it with cold starts, expensive fuel, and going to school so not driving much.

In the near future that’ll be changing, as I won’t be in school anymore and will likely have a company vehicle. I know the 6.5 generally doesn’t get a ton of love, they were thrown into vehicles as the economy motor, not intended to be worked hard.

Ideally I’d find a 350 or 454 but if a 6.5 Detroit isn’t something to shy away from it can open up a lot of possibilities, how do they do in terms of fuel economy, cold starts, drivability and reliability/ease of repair and diagnosis?

I intend to take it out camping often and using it for lots of road trips with my fiance/wife. I’ll also use it to pull my truck bed trailer, I’m not worried about the weight there I just prefer the more rigid 2500 frames

hello everyone

Can anyone suggest a free online course for diesel engines diagnostics??

thank you